Crawl Space Venting (Answer)

Hey J.T.,

You are correct, it is important to keep from building up excessive moisture in the crawlspace. It is also important to keep the pipes from freezing. This is always a source of confusion when we talk about venting in the cold weather.
In attics, heat rises up from the house to meet the cold air of the eaves,
creating a condition for moisture if not properly vented. This makes the cold months a prime time for moisture problems in the attic.
The summer months create the best conditions for moisture in a crawlspace. However, anytime you have two different temperatures getting together you have moisture concerns.
I recommend leaving the crawlspace vents open until the temperature gets below freezing. This will keep the pipes from freezing. Make sure to re-open them when the temperature rises.

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Crawl Space Venting (Question)

Hey Al,

I have a question about the winter checklist article. One of the suggestions was to close the vents to the crawl space (especially near plumbing).

I have heard you should close these vents unless it is going to be below freezing for a long period of time. I was under the assumption that venting under a foundation and an attic was just as important in the winter as it is in the summer.
Am I wrong?

Please let me know your thoughts on this.

Thanks J.T.


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Safe Holidays are Happy Holidays

Every year we hear of household accidents taking lives around the holiday season. To keep the holiday season a happy season we need to practice safety awareness. The simple fact is this season brings an increased use of electricity, candles, fireplaces, extension cords, live trees indoors, and holiday lights both in and out doors, all of which can increase the risk of fire.
With the holidays approaching, excitement fills the air with the anticipation of lots of food, lots of new toys, and seeing the family members that you only see on special occasions. To ensure the holidays are truly a wondrous event here are some tips to keep you and your family safe:

 Test your smoke detectors
 Test your carbon monoxide detector—if you do not have one, get one- it is worth it
 Check to make sure your fire extinguisher is operable and easy to get to
 Do not leave burning candles unattended
 Dispose of fireplace ashes outside and in a metal container
 After guests have left, take all trashcans outside—in case sparks or a cigarette may have gotten in
 Use indoor extension cords indoors only
 Use only outdoor lights outside your home
 Connect no more than three strands of lights together
 When connecting outdoor light strings together, cover the connections with plastic or something to keep out moisture
 Read the warning labels on decorative lights and follow them
 Check to make sure that all light strings are in good condition
 Unplug light strings before replacing the bulbs
 Do not overload electrical outlets
 Use only UL-approved lights

Remember if you are entertaining guests that smoke, provide plenty of ashtrays, check for cigarettes left burning, and again remember to remove all waste-cans before going to bed.





If you have a live tree in your house for the holidays, here are some tips for you:

 Do not purchase a tree that already has the needles falling off
 Trim a couple of inches off the bottom of the tree just before you put it in water- this will help it absorb water
 Locate the tree away from fireplaces and heat sources
 Water the tree regularly
 Use low voltage bulbs or “twinkle” type bulbs- these types of bulbs generate less heat
 Never use candles, even on artificial trees
 If you use a metallic tree, do not use electric lights on it
 Turn off lights before going to bed

After the holiday season, when it is time to dispose of the tree, you can call your local sanitation office to see what provisions they provide for disposal, but for safety’s sake never burn it in your fireplace.

If you have that hard-to-shop-for person on your gift list, or just want to give someone you love that gift of safety, here are some gift ideas:

 Smoke detectors
 A fire extinguisher
 A carbon monoxide detector
 Flashlight and batteries
 A first aid kit

We all are aware of the danger of fire and smoke and most of us have smoke detectors, and most of us check the batteries. But what about “The silent killer” carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is generated through incomplete combustion of fuel such as natural gas, propane, heating oil, kerosene, coal, and charcoal, gasoline or wood. This incomplete combustion can occur in a variety of home appliances. The major cause of high levels of carbon monoxide in the home is faulty ventilation of funaces, hot water heaters, fireplaces, cooking stoves, grills and kerosene heaters.
Faulty or improper ventilation of natural gas and fuel oil furnaces during the cold winter months accounts for most carbon monoxide poisoning cases.
Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are affordable and easy to install, and in my opinion a must for every home.

Youth groups often sell these items to raise money during the holiday season, so they are easy to find.

Remember the first step to keep your family safe begins with keeping your house safe!!!!

“The very best of holiday wishes to you and yours from all of us”

Lady Bug (Answer)

Hey Allen,
Don’t worry the ladybug (Asian lady beetle) will not feed or damage anything in your home. They are really only nuisances more than a pest. They cannot sting or harm you, and they will not breed indoors. It is normal to see a lot of them in late fall, because they are getting ready to hibernate. Once indoors they will hibernate until early spring. The best way to control them is with a vacuum cleaner.

Thanks for your question.

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Lady Bugs (Question)

Hey Al,

We live in an area that has wooded lots all around and we have some pest problems. This year we have had a late fall and along with that a lot of ladybugs. We have noticed them on the exterior walls, but recently they have invaded the interior of our home. What kind of damage can they do, or have they done to my house? The next question is what do I have to do to get rid of them?

Thanks in advance for your help

Allen


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Window Air Conditioners and Cold Weather (Answer)

Hey Ed,

If you are going to leave the air-conditioner units installed, you will need to cover them to keep out the cold. You can buy fitted covers for most models of window air-conditioners, if you prefer. But the inexpensive way works great, and is easy to do.
To cover these units the inexpensive way, you will need to buy some large plastic leaf bags, and some duct tape. Take one of the leaf bags and pull it over the air-conditioner, make sure it is pulled up tight. After the bag is on tight, run the duct tape around the bag and the air-conditioner close to the window. Now cut off the excess end of the bag. Take another bag and pull it tight over the unit, this time you can cut off the excess bag, but leave about three inches of the bag. Fold the left over end so you can tape it to the face of the opening. To make this tape job last trough the winter, you can spray it with some cheep hair spray.

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Window Air Conditioners and Cold Weather (Question)

Hey Al,

We live in a sixteen hundred square-foot brick ranch that we bought last summer. The house has hot water heat, so there are no ducts to have central air-conditioning installed. The house is cooled with two window air-conditioners and ceiling fans, this does a great job. The problem is since it has been getting colder, we feel a lot of cold air coming in from the air-conditioner. We would take them out for the winter, but they are bolted in and insulated very well. We want to leave them installed, but we want to stop the cold air.
Can you help us with an inexpensive cure?

Thanks

Ed

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Stucco Repair (Answer)

Hey Decon,
This job will require a few days that does not get below forty degrees and no hard rainfall. You will need to make a trip to the hardware store to get these items:
Material and Tool List
 Latex caulk
 Caulking gun
 Concrete bonding agent (acryl sixty)
 Whitewash brush (using scissors, cut bristles leaving only about two inches of bristles)
 Small paintbrush
 Square trowel (margin trowel)
 Stucco patching compound
 Duct tape
 Plastic garbage bag
 Small bag of dry sand
Use the latex caulk on the cracks that are one-quarter inch or less in width. Fill in the cracks with the caulk and use the trowel to cut off the excess caulk. While the caulk is still wet, apply some of the dry sand, the next day brush off the excess sand.
For larger cracks you will need to prepare the cracks by brushing off the loose plaster, and painting the crack with bonding agent. Dampen the crack with water, and fill in the cracks with stucco patching compound, make sure to mix the compound fairly stiff. After the compound becomes dry to the touch, brush it with the whitewash brush until it blends with its surroundings. To cure the patch, you will need to lightly mist the patch with water, then cut a piece of the garbage bag large enough to cover the repair. Use the duct tape to secure the garbage bag over the repair, and leave it on for four days. If the area is deeper than three eights of an inch, you will need to use the same techniques, but only fill the area about half the depth, let it set for a day, then finish it just like the other repairs.

I hope this helps, good luck with your “Stucco Jewel”.

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Stucco Repair (Question)

Hey Al,
We bought our ninety-year-old home this year, and have been very happy with it. We want to repair and paint the exterior of this massive stucco jewel. The stucco is in pretty good condition, but there are some cracks and some holes and spots of missing stucco. The finish on the stucco is a brushed look and is also going to get painted. We were told that the hardest things about repairing stucco, is matching smooth textures and the color. With this in mind we feel that we can do the patchwork ourselves.

We could use any helpful hints you can give us.

Thanks

Decon

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Cracks in My Ceiling (Answer)

Hey Dawn,

From your description of the problem, what you have is a typical case of Truss Uplift. This is not the first time I have had this question. To explain this, I will have to give you a brief explanation of your roof structure.
To start your roof structure is a truss type. To put this simply, the frame for your roof and the frame for your ceiling are all connected, this makes a truss. These trusses are spaced about sixteen to twenty-four inches apart, to span the length of your house. The top wood of the truss is called the upper cord, to that your roof sheathing and shingles are attached. The wood that runs along the bottom is called the lower cord, to that your ceiling is attached.

Trusses structurally span the entire width of the house, there for they require no load-bearing wall in the center. The center wall that divides your rooms is a non-load bearing wall, the lower cords of the trusses simply pass over the wall.


Please note: This is a simple explanation of "Truss Uplift" and in no way implies you can safely remove walls in your home. To remove a wall safely, each case has to be evaluated by an expert to determine the proper and safe way to accomplish the desired results!

Now getting back to your problem “truss uplift”. This type of cracking or separation wile being unattractive it does not usually indicate a structural problem.

Since the trusses are all one unit connected together to form the ceiling and the roof structure, as the parts cure and shrink all parts of the truss is affected. The wood starts drying and shrinking the attachments that hold the top cord to the bottom cord, causing the bottom cord to crown or raise up in the middle. This causes the ceiling to raise and lift from the center wall, thus causing the cracks between the wall and the ceiling.

In your case, since the house is three years old, the moisture content of the truss members is at a stable level, and will not get worse.

Cosmetic repair of the cracks should take of this problem. In most cases a paintable calk and some paint is an easy and inexpensive cure.

While major and persistent cracking may indicate structural problems, in your case the cracking is a common and normal occurrence in new houses. With new construction it is likely to have slight settling and shrinkage of building materials, which will cause some slight cracking in the corners of your drywall.


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Cracks In My Ceiling (Question)

Hey Al,

Recently my husband and I purchased a three-year-old ranch house. The house is beautiful and very obviously well maintained. However we have noticed a crack in the ceiling of the living room at the corner of the wall that separates the living room from the family room. On the other side of this wall is the family room, where there is a crack in the ceiling against the same wall. The cracks are not very wide, but they do run almost the entire length of this center wall, on both sides.
Our concern is this wall runs long ways down the center of our house, does this mean that our house is settling? Is our house going to fall down? Is this a major structural problem? What can we do?

See Ya,

Dawn

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Gas Water Heater (Answer)

Hey Melisia,

In this case you are going to need to have a professional plumber correct this installation. Gas water heaters are require to have a short piece of metallic pipe or appliance connector at least six inches long, above the flue piping. This transition piece is required to prevent damage to the CPVC from excessive heat build-up in the flue. In some areas CPVC can be installed directly onto electric water heaters with special transition fittings, but gas water heaters always required the metallic connectors. A licensed plumber will consult local code requirements prior to installation, and in most cases a local permit is required.

Thanks for your question.

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Gas Water Heater (Question)

Hey Al,

I live in an older home that thought out the years has had many repairs and updates, not to mention many different people working on it. Recently we had our water heater go out and I think I hired the wrong person to replace it. We have a gas water heater with a metal flue pipe coming out of the top of the water heater then turning and going to the chimney. My concern is when the water heater was replaced, the installer used a plastic pipe called CPVC. This plastic pipe runs with in an inch of the flue pipe, and the flue pipe gets hot. I tried to call the installer, but his phone is disconnected and it appears he has vanished.
Do I need to call some one else, or is this not a problem?

Melisia

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Older House Wiring (Answer)

Hey Norton,


Older Romex was a two-wire system, meaning the Romex consisted of only two wires a hot and a neutral, but not a ground. The term open ground, just means that there is not a ground wire present. A hot and a neutral is all it takes to make the lights and the receptacles work. In the early sixties the electrical industry converted to Romex with a third wire, this wire was not intended to make the lights or receptacles work better, but to increase shock safety, by protecting equipment that is plugged in to the circuit against a ground fault. Electricity tries to find it’s way to ground, when it finds it’s way to the ground, that is called a ground fault, that’s how you get shocked. The electricity is using you to travel to the ground. The ground wire is just making an easer path for stray electricity to find ground instead of using you.
With a two-wire system (open ground system) like yours, replacing old receptacles in the bathrooms, kitchen, exterior, garage, and basement with GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) receptacles will increase safety. GFCI protection is a system that shuts off the power if it senses a ground fault, that means the electricity is passing thought you to the ground. The GFCI’s are not designed to protect equipment, but to protect you against electrocution.
Consult an Electrician about the best way to add the GFCI protection in your specific situation.


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Older House Wiring (Question)

Hey Al,

We recently purchased an older home that was built in the fifties. We had a home inspection on the house prior to the purchase, and the report indicated that the home’s wiring is “Functional but outdated by today’s safety standards”. The report further states that the house wiring is “older ungrounded romex and that a represented number of receptacles were tested and were found to be open ground”.
Can you explain what this means and how can I increase the safety factor?

Thanks,

Norton

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Oil Stained Driveway (Answer)

Hey Tom,


The best solution for removing fresh oil is a big bag of the cheapest kitty litter you can find. Just put a few large handfuls on the oil spill, and let it soak for a day or two, and sweep it up. This works great on fresh oil spills or under leaky cars.

To clean the old stains, you will need a pressure washer and some concrete driveway cleaner. You can get this cleaner at any hardware store. A little trick I found to work good, is the day before I am going to clean the driveway, I put some of the cleaner (un-mixed) on the bad spots. After this sets over night you are ready to apply the cleaner as to the directions, and pressure all those years of stains.



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Oil Stained Driveway (Question)

Hey Al,

I have a large concrete driveway and three teen-age drivers with older cars. That in it self plays a big roll in supplying my driveway with fresh oil, not to mention my oldest son that works on his leaky car in the driveway.
Is there an easy to remove this fresh oil, and is there anything I can do to remove the old stains?


Thanks

Tony

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Sweating Toilet (Answer)

Hey Paula,

Sometimes a leaking flapper valve can cause this buy not holding water tightly in the bowl. If the flapper valve leaks you will hear the toilet run and shut off, even when it has not been used. This will cause cold water to keep coming in and never giving it a chance to warm up, this can cause excessive condensation.
To check if the flapper valve is leaking;
 Turn off the water supply to the toilet, before you go to bed. The shut-off valve is on the right side of the toilet near the floor.
 Take the top off of the tank and mark the water level with a marker.
 The next morning check the water level.
 If the water level has not dropped, the flapper is good.
 If the water level has dropped, the flapper is bad, and needs to be replaced.
 Turn the supply back on.

If the flapper is leaking, then replacing it should cure your problem. If the flapper is not leaking, you may want to get a toilet tank insulation kit. You can get this kit at your local hardware store for fewer than fifteen dollars. This insulates the tank and cuts down on the accumulation of condensation.
If all else fails, there is one other method. You can consult a plumber on installing a hot water mixer valve. This valve adds hot water to the toilet’s water supply. With warm water and a warm toilet tank, you will not have condensation.

Thanks for your question.

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Sweating Toilet (Question)

Hey Al,

I live in a two-story four bedroom three and a half-bath-house. I moved in about five months ago and noticed that the up-stairs toilet had a lot of condensation under the tank. Now it is worse than it was, the floor gets wet some times. I have replaced the supply line and there are no leaks, it is condensation.
Is there something I can do to slow the condensation down?

Thanks

Paula

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Water Heater (Answer)

Hey Darnell,

It sounds like you have a bad sacrificial anode in the water heater. The sacrificial anode is a metal rod usually magnesium or aluminum. This rod is screwed into the top of the water heater, and its job is to help prevent corrosion of the metal tank. This rod sacrifices it self, to be eaten away from electrolysis instead of the metal of the tank. Once the anode is gone the tank itself begins to corrode. Replacing the anode when needed will prolong the life of the tank.
With the noise and the weird greenish substance you described, I believe you have an aluminum anode rod. If your water has a high pH level, it will cause the aluminum anode rod to corrode slow and produce aluminum hydroxide (weird greenish substance). The aluminum hydroxide falls to the bottom of the heater, trapping heat, and this is what makes your water heater sound like a “coffee percolator”.

The best way to find out if your anode is aluminum is to look at the exposed anode rod nut located on the top of the water heater. If the top of the nut is smooth, that indicates the anode is aluminum. If the top of the nut has a large bump on it, it is a magnesium anode.

If you find out that the anode is aluminum, and the water heater is in good condition except for the noise and the weird greenish substance. You may consider having the water heater flushed out and replacing the aluminum anode rod with a magnesium anode rod.

Thanks for your question.

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Water Heater (Question)

Hey Al,
We bought our thirty-year-old house two years ago, and have been very happy with it. We have painted and done some small repairs. But now I think our water heater is on its last leg. It will make noises like a coffee percolator; at times it is very loud. We have not noticed any problem with having enough hot water, but we have noticed a thick greenish substance coming out of the hot water faucet. I don’t know if the noise and the weird greenish substance have anything to do with each other, but they both started at the same time. We have always had our water heater either stop supplying hot water or leaking, but this noise thing is a new one for us.

Is it time for a new heater?

Thanks,

Darnell

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Baby Proof (Answer)

Hey Andy,

Childproofing your home is a very important step for your child’s safety. Hazards in the home contribute to the injury or death of about 2 million children a year. Fortunately many of these incidents can be avoided by informed parents and using some of the simple child safety devices on the market today.

Here are some child safety devices that can help get you started on making you home as safe as possible for your young children:

 Use Safety Gates to help prevent falls down stairs and to keep children away from dangerous areas.
 Use Safety Latches and Locks for cabinets and drawers in kitchens, and bathrooms.
 Use Door Knob Covers and Door Locks to prevent passage to possible danger.
 Use Smoke Detectors, and Carbon Monoxide Detectors on every level of your home and near bedrooms.
 Use Window Guards and Safety Netting to help prevent falls from windows, balconies, decks, and landings.
 Use Corner and Edge Bumpers to help prevent injuries from falls against sharp edges.
 Use Outlet Safety Covers and Outlet Plates.

For more information on child safety in your home go to; www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/grand/12steps/12steps.html

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Baby Proof (Question)

Hey Al,


I am a brand new Dad and while I am nervous about everything that the
little guy does, I was wondering if you have any tips on easy things I can
do to Baby proof my home.

Thanks

Andy

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Doorbell Transformer (Answer)

Hey Amanda,

In residential 120 volt wiring the black is the hot and the white is the neutral. Look closely at the connection screws on the transformer, one will be silver in color and one will be brass. So with 120 volt residential wiring remember “black on brass”. The black wire is the hot wire and the brass screw is the hot connection. The white wire is the neutral and it goes to the silver screw. The “black on brass” rule applies to all household wiring. When you mount the transformer you can mount it to the outside of the main panel box or on a wall, but never mount it inside the panel box. Transformers will get warm and heat is not something you want on the inside of a panel. Remember always turn the power off at the main electrical box before attempting any wiring.

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Doorbell Transformer (Question)

Hey Al,

I have owned my own house for the past nine years and I have become very handy with repairs, but I still have problems with electrical repairs. Recently my doorbell quit working because of a bad transformer. I replaced the transformer and it worked for about ten minutes before it got real hot and quit. I feel I did not wire it correctly, so before I cook another transformer I would like to know if there is a coded way to know which wire (black or white) goes onto which screw on the transformer?

Help

Amanda

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Furnace Filter (Answer)

Hey Ted,

Changing or cleaning the furnace filter is a good step to prolong the life of your furnace and air-conditioner. Since the same duct work and circulating fan is used for heating and cooling system, it is important to change the filter in the winter months and summer months.
It is important to get the correct size of filter for your furnace. You can get the size of the filter off of the old filter. But when it comes to picking a filter you have a lot of choices depending on how much you want to spend. Your Dad used the least inexpensive disposable fiberglass filters. These filters are good to protect your furnace, but they only block out the large dust and dirt particles, and let the smaller particles like mold and pollen pass through.
A reusable static charged filter (electrostatic filter) is slightly more effective and slightly more expensive than the disposable fiberglass filter. This is a very popular filter, but the down side is it has to be cleaned instead of just throwing it away like the disposable fiberglass filters. By the way, I think this is the type of filter you found in your furnace.
Pleated disposable filters can trap a lot more of the allergens like mold and pollen, but they are slightly more expensive than the reusable static charged filter.
If allergies are not a problem, I would recommend a disposable fiberglass filter, or an electrostatic filter.
There are filters on the market that are very efficient in reducing mold and pollen, but they can also restrict airflow and cause problems with some heating and air-condition equipment. If you are considering a high efficiency filter you should consult your heating and air-conditioning service person to make sure the filter will work with your system.

Thanks for the great question.

Al

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Furnace Filter (Question)

Hey Al,

I recently purchased my first home, it is a thirty-year-old house in good condition and well maintained. My Dad has given me a list of preventive maintenance items, and one of the things on the list is keeping my furnace filter changed.
I went to change the filter in my furnace, and when I pulled it
out I saw that it wasn't like the filters my Dad had, it was this wire mesh
filter. I grew up watching my Dad change those old filters that look like insulation.
What kind of filter do I have? And are there special filters I need for this furnace?

Thanks

Ted

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HYDO-WHAT? (Answer)

Hey Telly,

The type of heating system is a valid concern when considering an older house. A considerable number of outdated heating systems are still in use, such as convection hot water and gravity hot air systems. These heating systems are so outdated that an upgrade should be considered. These systems are very inefficient and very costly to operate.
The hydronic system consists of a boiler to heat water, usually to between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit, and pumps to circulate the hot water through pipes in the building. This heated water warms radiators placed in all the rooms in the house. Many people prefer (hydronic) hot water heat because the radiators are small, the system is typically quiet, and it can be easily divided into multiple zones. Also this type of hot water heat is very efficient and dependable, thus making steam heat obsolete in homes and smaller buildings.
Before you make a purchase, you should have the whole house and the heating system inspected by a professional.


Thanks for your time



Al




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HYDO-WHAT? (Question)

Helo Al,

I have been house hunting in upstate New York, and I have found several older houses in the paper that interest me. I really want an older house, but one of my concerns with older houses is the heating system.
I see the types of heating described in the ads, such as steam, convection hot water, gravity hot air, and hydronic. The one house I am most interested in is said to have hydronic heating. Can you tell me if that is good or bad? Are there certain heating systems I need to stay away from?


Thanks

Telly

Answer will be posted tomorrow.

“Shower Flush Syndrome” (Answer)

Hi Marie,

If a house’s pipes are large enough with the right amount of pressure, several fixtures can be used at the same time without noticeable changes in water temperature. For example, two fixtures in a bath are run on 1/2 pipe (the smaller pipe) - the line to the toilet and one to the sink. The hot and the cold for the tub and shower are run with ¾ inch pipes (the larger pipe). The increase in pipe size helps prevent drastic changes in temperature in the shower when the toilet or sink are being used.
In your case, I think that the cure for the problem would be replacing your old tub and shower valve with a pressure-balanced tub and shower valve. The pressure-balanced valve is a single-handled valve that balances the hot and cold water to maintain a temperature range plus or minus 2 degrees.
Call your local Handyman to evaluate your situation.

Thanks for posting your question

Al

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“Shower Flush Syndrome” (Question)

Hi Al,

We have lived in our four-bedroom, three-bath house for three years. I love the house, but I am tired of the “shower flush syndrome”- you know, when you are taking a shower and someone flushes the toilet, and the temperature changes to HOT.

Is this something that is just normal, something that I have to live with?

My friend said that it could be corrected by redoing the whole plumbing system. If there is anything that I can do, please let me know.

Thanks

Marie

Damp Crawl (Answer)

Hi Debbie,

It sounds like you have a good start on fixing your problem. Yes, the vapor barrier should cover the floor completely. Also, the seams should overlap and be taped to seal them.
Condensation builds up as a result of temperature differences, so if the crawl space temperature stays close to the temperature outside, the condensation problems decline. Here is a list of things to consider:
 Make sure you have good cross ventilation in the crawlspace.
 Make sure that the vapor barrier is sealed everywhere.
 Make sure that the insulation under your floor is adequate and in place.
 All exposed ductwork and plumbing lines should be insulated.
In the very worst case, to solve the problem, you may have to install a dehumidifier.
There are a number of fungus killers on the market that would help. I recommend that you achieve good ventilation in the crawlspace first, and then see how bad the fungus is at that point. In many cases the ventilation alone will cure the fungus problem.

Hope this helps, and thanks for your question.

Al

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

DAMP CRAWL (Question)

Hey Al,

I have a house that is built on a crawl space, it has a severe condensation problem. We were told by a Home Inspector to install a vapor barrier in the crawl space under our house. We have done this; but the condensation is worse. It is coming off our waterlines and heat pump vents. Should we have installed the vapor barrier completely against the walls or left a space between the walls and the plastic barrier?
Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of the fungi that is on the joists?

Thank you for your help,

Debbie

Answer will post on Monday

NEW DECK (Answer)

Good day Eian,

The most common mistake with redwood decks is not sealing them with water repellent. If wood is left unsealed, it will decay, darken, and eventually rot. The best way to preserve your redwood is to seal all pieces of decking materials before construction. Also when choosing a sealer, you may consider one with a mildew-cide additive to preserve the color of your wood. If you like the weathered look of redwood, you can still seal it. Then use a stain with a bleaching agent to achieve a weathered look. Your local paint store can help you decide the product that most fits your needs. Water repellent or sealer can be applied with a roller, brush, or spray. When applying stain use a brush only. To help preserve your deck, I recommend that you reapply the sealer every eighteen months to two years.
When getting bids from contractors it is important to put together a scope of work to be done. By having such a list for the contractors from which to bid, it is easier to compare prices, because all the contractors are bidding on the same things. You won’t have one bidding with sealer and one bidding without. Here are some things to include in a scope of work agreement:


 All wood to be sealed before construction of deck
 Brand and style specific of sealer and stains
 Number of coats of stain
 Type of hardware to be used
 A working set of plans


Thanks for the question,



Al



Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

NEW DECK (Question)

Good day Al,

We bought our dream home on the coast three years ago. We now have spent the last three years completely renovating and restoring our dream house. Now that we have all the necessary work completed, we want to add some amity, like a custom redwood deck.
We have the deck plans drawn and now we are preparing to get bids from contractors.
We have talked to some contractors on redwood decks, and some said to seal the deck with water repellent, and some said that redwood does not need to be sealed. The prices are very different, depending on to whom we talked.
Is there anything else of which we need to be aware as we get prices, and should we seal the redwood? If so, why?

Thanks Eian

THE FIRST WINTER WITH A POOL (Answer)

Hi Frank,

Calling a pool company is certainly one option, but if you have time to do it yourself, it’s not too hard. It will also save you some money.

Based on what you told me, I think these basic instructions will be what you need:

 Vacuum all debris from your pool.
 Remove all accessories and ladders.
 Let the filter run until pool water runs clear.
 Check chlorine level, it should be 3 ppm and the Ph should be 7.5.
 Add the winterizing chemicals (follow the directions of the chemicals you purchase).
 Bring water level to just below the skimmer opening.
 Remove skimmer weir door and basket.
 Install skimmer winter cover plate and put the cap back on.
 Tie an air pillow in the center of the pool (this will help hold up the cover).
 Install winter cover (secure cover with tie-downs or cables or what ever method your pool uses).
 If you are in a windy area, you can add a couple of inches of water to the top of the pool cover.
 Disconnect pump and filter, drain, and store indoors (if sand filter, remove the top valve, drain and cover).
 Shut off gas to water heater (or shut off electric if electric heater)
 Drain water from heater, and cover.

If your pool is equipped with a bottom drain, it must be disconnected at the valve and elevated above the water level. Then it needs to be plugged with a cap that has an air valve fitting, so you can pump air into the pipe to force out water.
If the pool has a light, the bulb should be removed and stored.

Thanks for the question

Al

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman" in subject box.

THE FIRST WINTER WITH A POOL (Question)

Hey Al,

I purchased a house early this summer, and it came with an aboveground pool. This pool has a deck all the way around it, and a heater as well. The previous owner said they used the pool to the end of September every year, before they winterized it. I have never had a pool before and I am not sure I understand what is involved in winterizing my pool.
Is this something I can do myself, or do I need to have a pool company do it?
Can you give me an idea of what this entails?

Thanks

Frank

See post tomorrow for answer.

What’s involved in testing for a Real Estate transaction?

During most real estate transactions, time is an important factor. Most decisions are made during the time restrictions of the parties involved. It is important, due to these constraints, that parties have the best data available when making decisions.

Radon tests done by a qualified tester,using a Femto-TECH CRM-510 Continuous Radon Monitor with high sensitivity provides the greatest amount of information and data for decision making. The EPA recommends when doing a Radon test involving a real estate transaction, that not only the Radon be measured, but also that humidity, temperature, barometric pressure and tamper resistance be logged. This helps in assuring proper testing conditions are met. The femto-TECH, CRM-510 meets or exceeds these guide-lines and is an EPA listed and approved instrument of the highest quality. Best of all, the results of the test can be printed directly after the conclusion of the test. There is no waiting for samples to be sent off to a lab for analysis.

When having a radon test done that involves a real estate transaction, it is essential that all EPA guidelines and standard protocols are followed.

• Closed house conditions must be maintained for 12 hours before the start of the test and for the test duration. Close all windows and doors and keep them closed during the test period. Doors can only be opened and closed to enter and leave the premises, but windows will need to be kept closed. Overhead garage doors need to be closed except for entry and exit of a vehicle.
• Minimize operation of bathroom or kitchen exhaust fans or non-essential exhaust appliances.
• Do not operate fireplaces, ceiling fans, whole house attic fans, electrostatic precipitators, window air conditioners, or any other external-Central heating and cooling systems can be operated as normal.
• The radon testing device cannot be tampered with or moved during the test.
• The testing device placement shall be in the lowest area deemed livable in the structure. Device placement shall be a minimum of 20 inches above the floor and no higher that 8 feet, and away from outside door and window openings.
• Tests should not be conducted during extreme weather conditions.

The above steps are designed to give uniformity to the test data when making decisions with reference to the EPA radon action level of 4.0 pCi/l.

Radon (part 3)

What is the Risk?

The Surgeon General warns that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. Radon gas and radon progeny in the air can be breathed into the lungs where they breakdown further and emit “alpha particles”. Alpha particles release small bursts of energy, which are absorbed by nearby lung tissue. This results in lung cell death or damage.

When lung cells are damaged, they have the potential to result in cancer when they reproduce. Cancers caused by radioactivity are started by chance and not everyone exposed to Radon will develop lung cancer. The time between exposure and the onset of the disease is usually many years.

The risk of developing lung cancer from Radon depends on the concentration of radon in the air you breathe and the length of time you are exposed.

Taking the necessary actions against the radioactive gas that cannot be seen, smelled, or tasted requires getting homes tested for elevated levels. Radon could not only be harbored in the home, but exposure can be a potentially dangerous health hazard. As Realtors, you can also direct your clients to the EPA’s “Home Buyers and Sellers Guide to Radon” www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/pubs/hybyguid.html and “A Citizens Guide to Radon” www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/pubs/citguide.html

What is Radon? (part 2)

What is Radon?

Radon is a radioactive gas that is colorless, odorless and tasteless. It is formed by the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water. Radon also breaks down to form additional radioactive particles called “progeny”.

When Radon escapes from the ground into the outdoor air it is diluted to low concentrations and is not a concern. However, radon that enters an enclosed space, such as a home, can accumulate to high levels. The only way to determine the concentration of Radon in a home is testing by a professional.

Why Homes Should Be Tested for Radon (part 1)

As the public becomes more aware of Radon, there has become an increased demand for testing of homes before a purchase. Most relocation companies now require Radon testing as part of the transaction. The EPA and State of Tennessee are increasing their awareness programs. The national average indoor radon level is about 1.3 pCi/L while outdoor radon levels average 0.4 pCi/L. The higher a home’s radon level, the greater the health risks. Did you know that Middle Tennessee is in Zone 1 of the EPA’s radon potential map (highest level)? Zone 1 is described as an area that has a predicted average indoor radon level of greater than 4 pCi/L. The level of 4 pCi/L is called the action level, where the EPA recommends that action be taken to reduce the indoor concentration of Radon.

One Chance to Make a First Impression

Over the years homeowners always ask me; what can I do to my house to help it sell? As a handyman I know it is important for the house to be structurally sound and good working mechanical systems, but the bottom line is First Impressions.
No matter in which price range your house falls, the buyer’s first impression is one that sets the mode for the transaction. The phrase “curb appeal” is not just another cute phrase, it plays a large role in getting high market value for your house. The first impression certainly starts with the exterior. There are inexpensive things you can do to achieve good “curb appeal”, such as:
Keep the grass freshly cut
Avoid clutter in the yard
Fresh paint on wooden fences
The front door needs to look good (fresh paint) if needed
Make sure that all door handles are tight and clean
Wash or paint the exterior of the house
Make sure the windows are cleaned inside and out
Make sure that gutters and downspouts are firmly attached, and in good working order
Fresh mulch in flower borders

Tips for the interior include:
Avoid excessive things hanging on the wall
Avoid excessive knick-knacks sitting around
Keep rooms as open as possible (you may consider a temporary self-storage unit)
Clean or paint walls and ceilings
Carpets should be clean and smell good
Remove things from under the sink cabinets
Repair all plumbing leaks, this includes leaking faucets, and duct-taped drain traps
Make sure all light fixtures are clean and free of dust

Sight is not the only thing that makes a good first impression; the nose plays its part as well. These things will help in that department:
Keep the central air filter changed (it makes no difference if it is the heating or cooling season)
Pour water in basement floor drains (this keeps the drain traps from becoming dry, and letting in sewer odor)
Control cigarette and pet odor


First impressions has always been important when selling Real Estate. But with the Real Estate market being in a "Buyers Market"it is even more important to get the edge by having the property looking it's best. Sometimes the little things can make the biggest difference. Your local handyman can prove very valuable in helping you achieve “curb appeal”, giving the buyer that great first impression that will lead them to purchase your property.

Don't be Stonewalled

One concern of any homeowner should be water control around foundations or any subterranean wall. The combination of soil and water against a wall can cause hydrostatic pressure that will cause the wall to implode. The main defense is proper water control. Retaining walls much like a foundation wall is a wall that holds soil in its place.
Here is a typical question I receive on this subject.

Question: We just moved into a wonderful cape cod that was built in the 1950's. We love the home, but we have a retaining stonewall on the side of our drive and it appears to be leaning inwards. It looks like there was some patchwork in the past (new concrete). How worried should I be and should I just pay to have a new wall built? Answer: Retaining walls over the years will start to lean inwards because of hydrostatic pressure. This is caused by poor grading on the high side of the wall, and also poor draining at the bottom of the wall. If the wall is leaning in slightly, with proper maintained and drainage the wall can still perform for many more years.
For proper grating at the top of the wall, the dirt should be higher against the wall and sloping down away from the wall. This will help stop water pressure against the wall. You should find drain holes (scuppers) at the bottom base of the wall, removing dirt and debris from these holes will help with drainage. This will also help prevent water pressure against the wall.
Perform these maintenance tips and monitor the wall movement.
If the wall keeps moving, there are other cures besides removing and rebuilding the wall. One such method is to install soil anchors. Soil anchors are rods that go through the wall and under the soil, and are anchored in the soil. There are plates on the open side of the wall that the rods pass through. The rods are treaded and have nuts on the end, by tightening the nuts the wall is pulled back into place, and is held there by the soil anchors.

"Call Your Handyman and Take a Kid Fishing"

Paint is a Waste

You find this in every bodies storage; leftover paint, yes mine too. So let’s do our part to properly take care of these leftover paints and their containers? When I did the research, I was surprised to find out that paint constitutes about 60 percent of household hazardous waste collected by local and state governments. Latex paint is not considered hazardous by federal definition. So usable latex paint can be dried and discarded in the normal trash collection.

The National Paint and Coatings Association offer these suggestions for disposing of paint:

Buy only the paint you need — First, always buy only what you need. That way, you reduce the chance of having any paint leftover.

Store paint so it lasts for years — Just cover the opening with plastic wrap, and make sure the lid fits securely so the paint does not leak. Then, store the paint can upside down. The paint will create a tight seal around the lid, keeping the paint fresh for years.

Use up all your paint — Leftover paint can be used on touch-up jobs and smaller projects. You also can blend and mix smaller quantities of similar colors of latex paint to use as a primer on larger jobs, or jobs where the final finish is not critical. (Always make sure you read and follow all label instructions when applying paint.)

Recycle the empty paint can — Once you have used up your paint, recycle the empty steel paint cans. Each paint can you recycle is one less can that ends up in a landfill! In some areas, plastic paint pails and containers also may be recyclable, so be sure to check the requirements for your community.


Donate or exchange your paint — If you just can’t use your leftover paint, donate it to community groups, theater groups, schools, churches and others who need or want it. You may even be able to take a tax deduction! Another good way to get rid of your unwanted leftover paint is to participate in — or organize — a neighbor-to-neighbor or community-wide paint exchange/paint swap. Some communities even hold these along with their household waste collection events.


Dispose of paint properly — If you need to dispose of leftover paint, make sure you do it properly. Let your leftover latex paint air-dry away from children and pets. Pour the latex paint into a paper box or bag and add absorbent material like shredded newspaper or kitty litter to speed drying. Recycle the empty can, and then throw the dried paint away with your normal trash. (Note: If you live in California, Washington or Minnesota, your state may require special disposal considerations for latex-based paints, so be sure to check.)
Remember, air-drying liquid solvent-based paint is generally not recommended, but if the paint has already solidified in a closed can, you can dispose of it in the regular trash. Liquid solvent-based paint should not be discarded with normal trash. You should save it for a household hazardous waste collection program in your community. Many municipalities provide household hazardous waste service, which is applicable for solvent-based paint.

Recycled steel paint cans, aerosol cans, automobiles, steel construction materials, and many other steel products end up in new steel products. Most all of today’s steel products contain recycled steel, and can be recycled again. Steel’s magnetic attraction allows steel products to be easily separated from other recyclables.

Recycling is good for the Earth and good for future generations. Many communities have curbside recycling services. Also there are recycling centers all across the country where items can be brought. A lot of recycling centers will pay you for dropping off recyclable goods.

The Steel Recycling Institute (SRI) plays a big part in the education of the economic and environmental benefits of recycling steel.

The 10 Most Common Home Defects

My advice for Homeowners on Planning Ahead for Repairs

Although some homeowners don’t like to admit it, no house is perfect. Even the best built and maintained homes will always have items in less than perfect condition. In order to help homeowners start planning ahead for repairs, here is a list of the 10 most common home defects that frequently arise.

Many homeowners are unfamiliar with common problems a house can develop. Being aware of these home defects now can not only save in expensive repairs in the future, but also adds to the value of the home if the house should be put up for sale.”

10 Most Common Home Defects

Poor Drainage- Improper drainage can lead to water intrusion in the basement of homes and even severely compromised foundations.

Failing or Aging Heating and Cooling Systems- Older heating and cooling systems require maintenance and may be energy inefficient. There is also the risk that they can emit dangerous carbon monoxide fumes that are harmful to the family.

Environmental Hazards- Older homes may contain lead-based paint, high levels of carbon monoxide, radon, toxic molds, and even asbestos.

Inadequate Ventilation- This occurs when moisture accumulates in homes which damages interior walls and structural elements.

Improper Maintenance- Taking poor care of your household appliances can create consequences. Simple actions like cleaning out the lint trap in the clothes dryer can help prevent a fire.

Plumbing Problems- The pipes under your sink can be made of incompatible materials that lead to dripping faucets, leaking fixtures, and slow drains.

Roof Problems- The roof of your home may contain old or damaged shingles and improper flashing due to rain. The overall structure of the roof may be affected because of improperly installed collar ties and ridge beam supports.

No Permit- Many homes do not have permits for finished basements, deck additions, and hot tub and pool additions. This can lead to unnecessary fines when putting the house up for sale.

Electrical Safety Issues- A home with an out-of-date or insufficient electrical system can lead to fires and electric shock. Examples of other electrical safety hazards are ungrounded outlets, lack of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI), aluminum wiring, and faulty wiring conditions in electrical panels or elsewhere in a building. These are potentially hazardous defects and not to be taken lightly.

Rotted Wood- Wood placed around areas that are frequently wet can begin to rot. Wood around bathtubs, showers, and toilets are especially defective. The exterior of the home, including the outside trim of the house, decks, and roof eaves, should also be checked regularly for signs of rotting.

Knowing the top 10 most common house defects can help you prepare to put your home on the market. Check these areas of the home often to prevent damage and provide repairs when needed.

Call your local handyman and take a kid fishing.

Eye Sore

Here are some more examples of handyman questions I have receive, and this one was a little different than my normal questions.

Here it is:

In preparing to sell my late mother's home, I need advise on a situation. It is a ranch house on a slab. During the building process of this house there was a threat of a class action suit regarding pest control/Styrofoam edging around the slab. The pest control contractor "solved" this problem by installing a concrete apron around the slab (6 inches wide, 2 inches deep around the entire perimeter). I can't see that this really did anything but make the house look undesirable because the concrete is broken every two feet and broken away from the slab. The Styrofoam has been cut away at ground level. Should I just remove this concrete?

The Styrofoam was a bad idea to start with, it would wick moisture up and increases the chance of insect intrusion. The concrete was almost as bad. Having the Styrofoam cut away is the best thing you could do.
Removing the concrete will not hurt a thing, in fact it could help. You can replace the concrete with dirt, or you can use decorative gravel.
Another thing you may consider is making sure that the gutters and downspouts are working properly. It is equally important to make sure that where the downspouts terminate there is a splash block or some way to get the water away from the foundation.
Water control is important!

Remember "Call your handyman and go fishing"

Household Tips

Here are some simple household tips that may save you some money and aggravation.

1.Remove broken light bulb with potato. (make sure the electric is off)

2.Use Empty toilet paper roll to store appliance cords.

3.Use vertical strokes when washing windows outside and horizontal for inside windows. This way you can tell which side has the streaks. Straight vinegar will get outside windows really clean. Don't wash windows on a sunny day. They will dry quickly and streak.

4.Unclog a sink drain without harmful chemicals, just drop two Alka Seltzer tablets down the drain. Then dump a cup of white vinegar down the drain, allow it to work for about ten minutes, then run the hot water until drain is clear.

5.Spray your favorite perfume on the light bulb in any room to create that scent in the room when the light is turned on.

6.If a wooden door is scraping on its threshold,
Use sandpaper on top of a stack of magazines, just
put the stack of magazines and sandpaper under the open door. Use enough magazines so that the door hits the sandpaper snugly wile working the door back and forth over
the sandpaper.

7.Use Vaseline jelly instead of oil on door hinges. This will keep the drips of oil off of your carpet.

8.A squeaky hardwood floor is usually caused by floorboards
rubbing against each other. By sprinkling talcum powder or liquid wax over the boards and sweeping or rubbing it into the cracks, this will usually take care of the squeaks.

9.When drilling holes into a ceiling, you can avoid an eye full of dust by using an aluminum pie pan with a hole through the center. Hold the pie pan under the area to be drilled, and put the bit through the hole in the pie pan. This way the pan will catch the dust.

10.To remove fresh carpet stains, sprinkle dry cornstarch or baking soda on carpet wait ten minuets and vacuum.

11.You can make homemade furniture polish by combining 1/2 cup lemon juice to 1-cup vegetable oil or olive oil.

12.To loosen a rusty screw, apply a squirt of vinegar or hydrogen peroxide.

13.Keep bathroom mirrors from fogging by waxing them with liquid car wax.

14.Heating the window jams with a hairdryer can loosen old wooden windows that are stuck. Once the window is opened, rub an old candle in the window jams.

How Long Will This Last? (By Request) Part 2

Here are some tips on how to determine your overall home maintenance plan for the next five to 10 years by knowing the longevity of your home appliances and various components of your home .
APPLIANCES
Clothes dryer 14
Clothes washer 13
Dishwasher 10
Microwave oven 11
Range, electric 17
Range, gas 19
BATHROOM FIXTURES
Cast-iron tub 50
Fiberglass tub/shower 10-15
Toilet 50
COUNTER TOPS
Ceramic 15-25 years
Granite lifetime
laminated 10-15
Wood 20+
DOORS
Exterior, protected by overhang 80-100
Exterior, unprotected and exposed 25-30
Garage door 20-50
Garage-door opener 10
Interior, hollow core 30
Interior, solid core 30 to life
Screen 25-50
FLOORS
Oak or pine lifetime
Slate flagstone lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile 20-30
HEATERS and AIR CONDITIONERS
Heat Pump and Central Air Conditioner: 15 years
Furnace, gas- or oil-fired 16
Water heater, electric 11-14
Water heater, gas 11-13
LANDSCAPING
Deck, wooden 15
Driveway, asphalt 10
Fence 12
Patio, brick or concrete 24
Walkway, concrete 24
Walkway, gravel 4
ROOFING
Asphalt 15-30
Sheet metal 20-50
Slate 50-100
Tile 50
Wood shingles and shakes 15-35
SIDING
Aluminum 20-50
Metal 50 to life
Vinyl 30
Wood 30-100


According to The HomeTeam Inspection Service/HouseDoctors Handyman Service, in conjunction with the National Association of Home Builders, these numbers represent the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components of your home to last. Life expectancy may vary greatly depending on quality of material, installation, maintenance, environmental factors and use.

How Long Will This Last? (By Request)

I think that most everybody checks expiration dates on items they purchase from a grocery store, especially if it is a bulk item. Knowing the longevity of your purchase will dictate how you use it. For example; you may not buy a bulk item if your family cannot finish the entire item before the expiration date, that would be a waste of money. The items you buy from a grocery store are small ticket items compared to the purchase of a home, but how many people check the expiration date of their home’s components and appliances? The answer is very few people know the longevity of their home’s components and appliances, unless they have had a handyman work on their house or have had a home inspection. As a homeowner, knowing the longevity of your home’s components and appliances can help you budget for repairs, and help avoid expensive surprises. As a home purchaser, knowing the longevity of the home’s components and appliances can help you make the best deal on your purchase. For example; If you are looking to purchase a home that is fifteen years old, and all components and appliances are original, you can expect to replace the appliances soon and other major components in the next five years. This house may not be for you, if you cannot budget twenty to thirty thousand dollars or more for repairs in the next five years. Or maybe this information can help you negotiate a purchase price that reflects the cost of the anticipated repairs.

Tune in tomorrow for a guide line list of the maximum number of years you can reasonably expect various components and appliances in your home to last.

The cleaning went well, and now we can see what repairs need to be done. The next step is to take a mortar sample to our expert (Chub Garrett) for a good match, so we can replace the missing mortar. Missing mortar on walls should be repaired, but it is not as big of a deal as missing mortar on paving. Missing mortar on paving will let water go in the voids and undermine the dirt under the paving, this will cause the bricks to sink and make low spots. The low spots will collect water making the deterioration rapid. The sunken brick will make trip hazards, and should be repaired. Before we start re-pointing we will have to pull up all of the sunken brick and re-lay them.

Take a look at the before and after pictures, and see the big difference!

Years of Car and Bus Exhaust

Side Wall Before Cleaning

Floor Tile Before Cleaning

Side wall Before Cleaning

Steps and Walk Before Cleaning

Cleaning In Progress

Walk Before Cleaning

Cleaning In Progress

Big Difference

Steps After Cleaning

Steps and Walk After Cleaning

Side Wall After Cleaning

Now we can see what repairs we need to do

Side Wall After Cleaning

Steps and Wall After Cleaning

Please send any topic request to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com

Masonry Maintenance (Holly's House)

Masonry Maintenance

Normal masonry maintenance consists of cleaning, re-pointing, and sealing. In the case of Holly’s House the masonry has weathered for over eighty years and will need to be thoroughly cleaned and dried before the mortar can be matched for re-pointing. I have found that if you re-point (replace missing mortar) before the masonry is cleaned, you run the risk of a bad mortar color match. With masonry of this age the mortar was mixed with sand from a near by riverbank. The river sand contained a lot of small shell and gravel pieces giving the mortar a rough texture. To keep our re-pointing from looking like a “patch job” the color and the texture need to match the old work as close as possible. Matching old mortar and the general restoration of old masonry is defiantly an art. We are very fortunate to have Norman (Chub) Garrett on our team. Chub has over fifty-six years in the masonry field and was one of only three Masons to receive the “Master Masonry Craftsmanship Award” in Virginia. Chub takes pride in being a living virtuoso of masonry history and restoration. Chub has restored or been the go-to-guy for many historic landmarks in Virginia.
We are going to start cleaning the masonry on the front porch area of the house. As you can see from the pictures below, the masonry has been weathered and stained by mold, car exhaust, and dirt. New masonry requires strong chemicals such as Muriatic Acid to clean mortar off of the masonry surfaces, but in our case there is no mortar on the masonry surface, only dirt, mold, and car exhaust. To remove this dirt, mold, and car exhaust we are going to use a biodegradable soap and a low P.S.I pressure washer.
This will get the job done and keep the plants and flowers safe.

Let's start the cleaning!

See you tomorrow.

Chinese Drywall (By Request)

By request: This article was written by request from several readers. Please sent request to agarrett@hometeaminspection.com and put the words “blog request” in the subject box.

Handymen and Home Inspectors are discovering strange odors in some homes built in the past six years. The odor is often described as a rotten egg smell or that of discharged fireworks. The odor is being produced from defective Chinese drywall that has unusually high levels of hydrogen sulphide and ammonia.

Defective Chinese Drywall/Sheetrock is beginning to be Part of a National Investigation, due to reported health issues and rapid corrosive damage to any metal in the home including electrical wiring, plumbing, and HVAC units. There has been a flood of law suits filed or pending and many more to follow.

Chinese drywall:
During the big housing boom in late 2003, a mass quantity of drywall was shipped to the US from China. Chinese drywall has been reported to have unusually high levels of hydrogen sulphide and ammonia that can cause health issues and rapid corrosive damage to any metal in the home including electrical wiring, plumbing, and HVAC units.

Timeline:
Any house built or remolded between 2003 to present.

Where:
According to Americas Watchdog, "we will find the imported toxic Chinese drywall in every US State, with the heaviest concentrations in the US Southeast, the Gulf States, the US Southwest, Texas, the Mountain West, the DC Metro areas & throughout the Western Provinces of Canada. We think there are at least 300,000 new US homes that contain the imported Chinese drywall, & probably 10,000 to 15,000 homes throughout the Western Provinces of Canada."

Problems:
• Possible health issues for the Occupants of the home
• Rapid corrosion of the HVAC unit components

All copper tubing in unit has turned black as a result of being exposed to the high levels of hydrogen sulphide found in the drywall
• Rapid corrosive damage to electrical system

• Exposed ground wire corroded

• Rapid corrosive damage to copper plumbing systems

• Rotten egg or spent firecracker smell in the home

Identification:
Words on the back of the drywall; “CHINA” in red ink or “KNAUF” in black ink, Stamp on the back of the edge tape; C36, if available.

" KNAUF" ON BACK OF DRYWALL


Inspection Protocol:
Indicators we look for to determine if the house may have Chinese drywall:
• The house was built or remodeled between 2003 to present
• Rotten egg or sulfur-type smell in the home
• Corrosion on air conditioning coils, or HVAC units
• Corroded or black electrical wiring
• Corroded or black copper pipes
• Corroded or tarnished plumbing fixtures

If any of these symptoms are noticeable during the course of your visual inspection, if possible, look at the back of drywall possibly in the attic or garage. Look for the words; “CHINA” in red ink or “KNAUF” in black ink, also look for the Stamp on the back of the edge tape C36.
For more information go to; http://www.doh.state.fl.us/Environment/community/indoor-air/drywall.html

More on Holly’s House tomorrow

Holly's House (Part 12)

For the most part Handymen and Home Inspectors are in a lot of brick homes that are framed with non-supporting brick cladding. The brick you see on the exterior of a brick/framed house offer no structural support, they only give you the feel of a brick house. During the era Holly’s House was built, it was common for brick houses to be constructed of solid masonry (no wood framing). In a solid masonry house the brick act as the main structural support. The bonds (brick pattern) you see was to inter lock the brick walls together to create a strong solid masonry wall. In this era of masonry, common brick (plain smooth red brick) where used on the exterior of the house on walls not visible from the street. On the exterior walls facing the street or streets, a face brick (decorative brick) was used, and usually in a more decorative pattern. On Holly’s House a common brick was used on the back and one side of the house in an American bond (common pattern). A real nice wood mold face brick laid in an Old English bond was used for the front and one side of the house. Other nice features on the face brick sides include brick arches and a round window.

Here are some pictures of the exterior brickwork:

Street Side

Bull's Eye Window




Front




Side and Rear View

Back View

Common Brick With an Amercian Bond (on the left) Face Brick With an Old English Bond (on the right)

Holly's House (Part 11)

The ample sized patio in the backyard consist of large rectangular slate laid in a sand/dirt base. The large un-grouted joints have allowed water to seep under the slate and erode the sand and dirt fill, leaving the slate uneven. Slate laid in a sand/dirt base will shift and settle over time and since the joints are opened and not grouted there is nothing to stop the erosion under the slate.
On this project we will re-lay the slate in a dry-pack cement mix and damp-grout the joints. This will make the patio come to form. Maybe when we re-lay the slate the Boss will let us lay it in an Old English herring bone pattern or something.

The first project for the slate patio was to power wash the slate to see it’s true color. There are cleaning solutions for slate, and we will do that after it has been re-laid and grouted. But for now we will just power wash it without a solution and see what we have. When we power wash the slate we will use a nozzle setting of 1,500 to1,600 PSI. Higher PSI can cause slate to shale off some of its top layers.
Take a look at the color difference after the power wash.

View From Second Floor

Can You See Where the Pressure Washer Stops?


Big Difference!

Almost Finished

There will be more pictures of the landscape after April 15, that's when the plants and flowers are scheduled to arrive.

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