HYDO-WHAT? (Answer)

Hey Telly,

The type of heating system is a valid concern when considering an older house. A considerable number of outdated heating systems are still in use, such as convection hot water and gravity hot air systems. These heating systems are so outdated that an upgrade should be considered. These systems are very inefficient and very costly to operate.
The hydronic system consists of a boiler to heat water, usually to between 160 and 180 degrees Fahrenheit, and pumps to circulate the hot water through pipes in the building. This heated water warms radiators placed in all the rooms in the house. Many people prefer (hydronic) hot water heat because the radiators are small, the system is typically quiet, and it can be easily divided into multiple zones. Also this type of hot water heat is very efficient and dependable, thus making steam heat obsolete in homes and smaller buildings.
Before you make a purchase, you should have the whole house and the heating system inspected by a professional.


Thanks for your time



Al




Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

HYDO-WHAT? (Question)

Helo Al,

I have been house hunting in upstate New York, and I have found several older houses in the paper that interest me. I really want an older house, but one of my concerns with older houses is the heating system.
I see the types of heating described in the ads, such as steam, convection hot water, gravity hot air, and hydronic. The one house I am most interested in is said to have hydronic heating. Can you tell me if that is good or bad? Are there certain heating systems I need to stay away from?


Thanks

Telly

Answer will be posted tomorrow.

“Shower Flush Syndrome” (Answer)

Hi Marie,

If a house’s pipes are large enough with the right amount of pressure, several fixtures can be used at the same time without noticeable changes in water temperature. For example, two fixtures in a bath are run on 1/2 pipe (the smaller pipe) - the line to the toilet and one to the sink. The hot and the cold for the tub and shower are run with ¾ inch pipes (the larger pipe). The increase in pipe size helps prevent drastic changes in temperature in the shower when the toilet or sink are being used.
In your case, I think that the cure for the problem would be replacing your old tub and shower valve with a pressure-balanced tub and shower valve. The pressure-balanced valve is a single-handled valve that balances the hot and cold water to maintain a temperature range plus or minus 2 degrees.
Call your local Handyman to evaluate your situation.

Thanks for posting your question

Al

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

“Shower Flush Syndrome” (Question)

Hi Al,

We have lived in our four-bedroom, three-bath house for three years. I love the house, but I am tired of the “shower flush syndrome”- you know, when you are taking a shower and someone flushes the toilet, and the temperature changes to HOT.

Is this something that is just normal, something that I have to live with?

My friend said that it could be corrected by redoing the whole plumbing system. If there is anything that I can do, please let me know.

Thanks

Marie

Damp Crawl (Answer)

Hi Debbie,

It sounds like you have a good start on fixing your problem. Yes, the vapor barrier should cover the floor completely. Also, the seams should overlap and be taped to seal them.
Condensation builds up as a result of temperature differences, so if the crawl space temperature stays close to the temperature outside, the condensation problems decline. Here is a list of things to consider:
 Make sure you have good cross ventilation in the crawlspace.
 Make sure that the vapor barrier is sealed everywhere.
 Make sure that the insulation under your floor is adequate and in place.
 All exposed ductwork and plumbing lines should be insulated.
In the very worst case, to solve the problem, you may have to install a dehumidifier.
There are a number of fungus killers on the market that would help. I recommend that you achieve good ventilation in the crawlspace first, and then see how bad the fungus is at that point. In many cases the ventilation alone will cure the fungus problem.

Hope this helps, and thanks for your question.

Al

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

DAMP CRAWL (Question)

Hey Al,

I have a house that is built on a crawl space, it has a severe condensation problem. We were told by a Home Inspector to install a vapor barrier in the crawl space under our house. We have done this; but the condensation is worse. It is coming off our waterlines and heat pump vents. Should we have installed the vapor barrier completely against the walls or left a space between the walls and the plastic barrier?
Also, what is the easiest way to get rid of the fungi that is on the joists?

Thank you for your help,

Debbie

Answer will post on Monday

NEW DECK (Answer)

Good day Eian,

The most common mistake with redwood decks is not sealing them with water repellent. If wood is left unsealed, it will decay, darken, and eventually rot. The best way to preserve your redwood is to seal all pieces of decking materials before construction. Also when choosing a sealer, you may consider one with a mildew-cide additive to preserve the color of your wood. If you like the weathered look of redwood, you can still seal it. Then use a stain with a bleaching agent to achieve a weathered look. Your local paint store can help you decide the product that most fits your needs. Water repellent or sealer can be applied with a roller, brush, or spray. When applying stain use a brush only. To help preserve your deck, I recommend that you reapply the sealer every eighteen months to two years.
When getting bids from contractors it is important to put together a scope of work to be done. By having such a list for the contractors from which to bid, it is easier to compare prices, because all the contractors are bidding on the same things. You won’t have one bidding with sealer and one bidding without. Here are some things to include in a scope of work agreement:


 All wood to be sealed before construction of deck
 Brand and style specific of sealer and stains
 Number of coats of stain
 Type of hardware to be used
 A working set of plans


Thanks for the question,



Al



Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman question" in subject box.

NEW DECK (Question)

Good day Al,

We bought our dream home on the coast three years ago. We now have spent the last three years completely renovating and restoring our dream house. Now that we have all the necessary work completed, we want to add some amity, like a custom redwood deck.
We have the deck plans drawn and now we are preparing to get bids from contractors.
We have talked to some contractors on redwood decks, and some said to seal the deck with water repellent, and some said that redwood does not need to be sealed. The prices are very different, depending on to whom we talked.
Is there anything else of which we need to be aware as we get prices, and should we seal the redwood? If so, why?

Thanks Eian

THE FIRST WINTER WITH A POOL (Answer)

Hi Frank,

Calling a pool company is certainly one option, but if you have time to do it yourself, it’s not too hard. It will also save you some money.

Based on what you told me, I think these basic instructions will be what you need:

 Vacuum all debris from your pool.
 Remove all accessories and ladders.
 Let the filter run until pool water runs clear.
 Check chlorine level, it should be 3 ppm and the Ph should be 7.5.
 Add the winterizing chemicals (follow the directions of the chemicals you purchase).
 Bring water level to just below the skimmer opening.
 Remove skimmer weir door and basket.
 Install skimmer winter cover plate and put the cap back on.
 Tie an air pillow in the center of the pool (this will help hold up the cover).
 Install winter cover (secure cover with tie-downs or cables or what ever method your pool uses).
 If you are in a windy area, you can add a couple of inches of water to the top of the pool cover.
 Disconnect pump and filter, drain, and store indoors (if sand filter, remove the top valve, drain and cover).
 Shut off gas to water heater (or shut off electric if electric heater)
 Drain water from heater, and cover.

If your pool is equipped with a bottom drain, it must be disconnected at the valve and elevated above the water level. Then it needs to be plugged with a cap that has an air valve fitting, so you can pump air into the pipe to force out water.
If the pool has a light, the bulb should be removed and stored.

Thanks for the question

Al

Send questions to: agarrett@hometeaminspection.com Put "handyman" in subject box.

THE FIRST WINTER WITH A POOL (Question)

Hey Al,

I purchased a house early this summer, and it came with an aboveground pool. This pool has a deck all the way around it, and a heater as well. The previous owner said they used the pool to the end of September every year, before they winterized it. I have never had a pool before and I am not sure I understand what is involved in winterizing my pool.
Is this something I can do myself, or do I need to have a pool company do it?
Can you give me an idea of what this entails?

Thanks

Frank

See post tomorrow for answer.

What’s involved in testing for a Real Estate transaction?

During most real estate transactions, time is an important factor. Most decisions are made during the time restrictions of the parties involved. It is important, due to these constraints, that parties have the best data available when making decisions.

Radon tests done by a qualified tester,using a Femto-TECH CRM-510 Continuous Radon Monitor with high sensitivity provides the greatest amount of information and data for decision making. The EPA recommends when doing a Radon test involving a real estate transaction, that not only the Radon be measured, but also that humidity, temperature, barometric pressure and tamper resistance be logged. This helps in assuring proper testing conditions are met. The femto-TECH, CRM-510 meets or exceeds these guide-lines and is an EPA listed and approved instrument of the highest quality. Best of all, the results of the test can be printed directly after the conclusion of the test. There is no waiting for samples to be sent off to a lab for analysis.

When having a radon test done that involves a real estate transaction, it is essential that all EPA guidelines and standard protocols are followed.

• Closed house conditions must be maintained for 12 hours before the start of the test and for the test duration. Close all windows and doors and keep them closed during the test period. Doors can only be opened and closed to enter and leave the premises, but windows will need to be kept closed. Overhead garage doors need to be closed except for entry and exit of a vehicle.
• Minimize operation of bathroom or kitchen exhaust fans or non-essential exhaust appliances.
• Do not operate fireplaces, ceiling fans, whole house attic fans, electrostatic precipitators, window air conditioners, or any other external-Central heating and cooling systems can be operated as normal.
• The radon testing device cannot be tampered with or moved during the test.
• The testing device placement shall be in the lowest area deemed livable in the structure. Device placement shall be a minimum of 20 inches above the floor and no higher that 8 feet, and away from outside door and window openings.
• Tests should not be conducted during extreme weather conditions.

The above steps are designed to give uniformity to the test data when making decisions with reference to the EPA radon action level of 4.0 pCi/l.

Radon (part 3)

What is the Risk?

The Surgeon General warns that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. Radon gas and radon progeny in the air can be breathed into the lungs where they breakdown further and emit “alpha particles”. Alpha particles release small bursts of energy, which are absorbed by nearby lung tissue. This results in lung cell death or damage.

When lung cells are damaged, they have the potential to result in cancer when they reproduce. Cancers caused by radioactivity are started by chance and not everyone exposed to Radon will develop lung cancer. The time between exposure and the onset of the disease is usually many years.

The risk of developing lung cancer from Radon depends on the concentration of radon in the air you breathe and the length of time you are exposed.

Taking the necessary actions against the radioactive gas that cannot be seen, smelled, or tasted requires getting homes tested for elevated levels. Radon could not only be harbored in the home, but exposure can be a potentially dangerous health hazard. As Realtors, you can also direct your clients to the EPA’s “Home Buyers and Sellers Guide to Radon” www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/pubs/hybyguid.html and “A Citizens Guide to Radon” www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/pubs/citguide.html

What is Radon? (part 2)

What is Radon?

Radon is a radioactive gas that is colorless, odorless and tasteless. It is formed by the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water. Radon also breaks down to form additional radioactive particles called “progeny”.

When Radon escapes from the ground into the outdoor air it is diluted to low concentrations and is not a concern. However, radon that enters an enclosed space, such as a home, can accumulate to high levels. The only way to determine the concentration of Radon in a home is testing by a professional.

Why Homes Should Be Tested for Radon (part 1)

As the public becomes more aware of Radon, there has become an increased demand for testing of homes before a purchase. Most relocation companies now require Radon testing as part of the transaction. The EPA and State of Tennessee are increasing their awareness programs. The national average indoor radon level is about 1.3 pCi/L while outdoor radon levels average 0.4 pCi/L. The higher a home’s radon level, the greater the health risks. Did you know that Middle Tennessee is in Zone 1 of the EPA’s radon potential map (highest level)? Zone 1 is described as an area that has a predicted average indoor radon level of greater than 4 pCi/L. The level of 4 pCi/L is called the action level, where the EPA recommends that action be taken to reduce the indoor concentration of Radon.