What is Radon?
Radon is a radioactive gas that is colorless, odorless and tasteless. It is formed by the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water. Radon also breaks down to form additional radioactive particles called “progeny”.
When Radon escapes from the ground into the outdoor air it is diluted to low concentrations and is not a concern. However, radon that enters an enclosed space, such as a home, can accumulate to high levels. The only way to determine the concentration of Radon in a home is testing by a professional.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Why Homes Should Be Tested for Radon (part 1)
As the public becomes more aware of Radon, there has become an increased demand for testing of homes before a purchase. Most relocation companies now require Radon testing as part of the transaction. The EPA and State of Tennessee are increasing their awareness programs. The national average indoor radon level is about 1.3 pCi/L while outdoor radon levels average 0.4 pCi/L. The higher a home’s radon level, the greater the health risks. Did you know that Middle Tennessee is in Zone 1 of the EPA’s radon potential map (highest level)? Zone 1 is described as an area that has a predicted average indoor radon level of greater than 4 pCi/L. The level of 4 pCi/L is called the action level, where the EPA recommends that action be taken to reduce the indoor concentration of Radon.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
One Chance to Make a First Impression
Over the years homeowners always ask me; what can I do to my house to help it sell? As a handyman I know it is important for the house to be structurally sound and good working mechanical systems, but the bottom line is First Impressions.
No matter in which price range your house falls, the buyer’s first impression is one that sets the mode for the transaction. The phrase “curb appeal” is not just another cute phrase, it plays a large role in getting high market value for your house. The first impression certainly starts with the exterior. There are inexpensive things you can do to achieve good “curb appeal”, such as:
Keep the grass freshly cut
Avoid clutter in the yard
Fresh paint on wooden fences
The front door needs to look good (fresh paint) if needed
Make sure that all door handles are tight and clean
Wash or paint the exterior of the house
Make sure the windows are cleaned inside and out
Make sure that gutters and downspouts are firmly attached, and in good working order
Fresh mulch in flower borders
Tips for the interior include:
Avoid excessive things hanging on the wall
Avoid excessive knick-knacks sitting around
Keep rooms as open as possible (you may consider a temporary self-storage unit)
Clean or paint walls and ceilings
Carpets should be clean and smell good
Remove things from under the sink cabinets
Repair all plumbing leaks, this includes leaking faucets, and duct-taped drain traps
Make sure all light fixtures are clean and free of dust
Sight is not the only thing that makes a good first impression; the nose plays its part as well. These things will help in that department:
Keep the central air filter changed (it makes no difference if it is the heating or cooling season)
Pour water in basement floor drains (this keeps the drain traps from becoming dry, and letting in sewer odor)
Control cigarette and pet odor
First impressions has always been important when selling Real Estate. But with the Real Estate market being in a "Buyers Market"it is even more important to get the edge by having the property looking it's best. Sometimes the little things can make the biggest difference. Your local handyman can prove very valuable in helping you achieve “curb appeal”, giving the buyer that great first impression that will lead them to purchase your property.
No matter in which price range your house falls, the buyer’s first impression is one that sets the mode for the transaction. The phrase “curb appeal” is not just another cute phrase, it plays a large role in getting high market value for your house. The first impression certainly starts with the exterior. There are inexpensive things you can do to achieve good “curb appeal”, such as:
Keep the grass freshly cut
Avoid clutter in the yard
Fresh paint on wooden fences
The front door needs to look good (fresh paint) if needed
Make sure that all door handles are tight and clean
Wash or paint the exterior of the house
Make sure the windows are cleaned inside and out
Make sure that gutters and downspouts are firmly attached, and in good working order
Fresh mulch in flower borders
Tips for the interior include:
Avoid excessive things hanging on the wall
Avoid excessive knick-knacks sitting around
Keep rooms as open as possible (you may consider a temporary self-storage unit)
Clean or paint walls and ceilings
Carpets should be clean and smell good
Remove things from under the sink cabinets
Repair all plumbing leaks, this includes leaking faucets, and duct-taped drain traps
Make sure all light fixtures are clean and free of dust
Sight is not the only thing that makes a good first impression; the nose plays its part as well. These things will help in that department:
Keep the central air filter changed (it makes no difference if it is the heating or cooling season)
Pour water in basement floor drains (this keeps the drain traps from becoming dry, and letting in sewer odor)
Control cigarette and pet odor
First impressions has always been important when selling Real Estate. But with the Real Estate market being in a "Buyers Market"it is even more important to get the edge by having the property looking it's best. Sometimes the little things can make the biggest difference. Your local handyman can prove very valuable in helping you achieve “curb appeal”, giving the buyer that great first impression that will lead them to purchase your property.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Don't be Stonewalled
One concern of any homeowner should be water control around foundations or any subterranean wall. The combination of soil and water against a wall can cause hydrostatic pressure that will cause the wall to implode. The main defense is proper water control. Retaining walls much like a foundation wall is a wall that holds soil in its place.
Here is a typical question I receive on this subject.
Question: We just moved into a wonderful cape cod that was built in the 1950's. We love the home, but we have a retaining stonewall on the side of our drive and it appears to be leaning inwards. It looks like there was some patchwork in the past (new concrete). How worried should I be and should I just pay to have a new wall built? Answer: Retaining walls over the years will start to lean inwards because of hydrostatic pressure. This is caused by poor grading on the high side of the wall, and also poor draining at the bottom of the wall. If the wall is leaning in slightly, with proper maintained and drainage the wall can still perform for many more years.
For proper grating at the top of the wall, the dirt should be higher against the wall and sloping down away from the wall. This will help stop water pressure against the wall. You should find drain holes (scuppers) at the bottom base of the wall, removing dirt and debris from these holes will help with drainage. This will also help prevent water pressure against the wall.
Perform these maintenance tips and monitor the wall movement.
If the wall keeps moving, there are other cures besides removing and rebuilding the wall. One such method is to install soil anchors. Soil anchors are rods that go through the wall and under the soil, and are anchored in the soil. There are plates on the open side of the wall that the rods pass through. The rods are treaded and have nuts on the end, by tightening the nuts the wall is pulled back into place, and is held there by the soil anchors.
"Call Your Handyman and Take a Kid Fishing"
Here is a typical question I receive on this subject.
Question: We just moved into a wonderful cape cod that was built in the 1950's. We love the home, but we have a retaining stonewall on the side of our drive and it appears to be leaning inwards. It looks like there was some patchwork in the past (new concrete). How worried should I be and should I just pay to have a new wall built? Answer: Retaining walls over the years will start to lean inwards because of hydrostatic pressure. This is caused by poor grading on the high side of the wall, and also poor draining at the bottom of the wall. If the wall is leaning in slightly, with proper maintained and drainage the wall can still perform for many more years.
For proper grating at the top of the wall, the dirt should be higher against the wall and sloping down away from the wall. This will help stop water pressure against the wall. You should find drain holes (scuppers) at the bottom base of the wall, removing dirt and debris from these holes will help with drainage. This will also help prevent water pressure against the wall.
Perform these maintenance tips and monitor the wall movement.
If the wall keeps moving, there are other cures besides removing and rebuilding the wall. One such method is to install soil anchors. Soil anchors are rods that go through the wall and under the soil, and are anchored in the soil. There are plates on the open side of the wall that the rods pass through. The rods are treaded and have nuts on the end, by tightening the nuts the wall is pulled back into place, and is held there by the soil anchors.
"Call Your Handyman and Take a Kid Fishing"
Friday, July 3, 2009
Paint is a Waste
You find this in every bodies storage; leftover paint, yes mine too. So let’s do our part to properly take care of these leftover paints and their containers? When I did the research, I was surprised to find out that paint constitutes about 60 percent of household hazardous waste collected by local and state governments. Latex paint is not considered hazardous by federal definition. So usable latex paint can be dried and discarded in the normal trash collection.
The National Paint and Coatings Association offer these suggestions for disposing of paint:
Buy only the paint you need — First, always buy only what you need. That way, you reduce the chance of having any paint leftover.
Store paint so it lasts for years — Just cover the opening with plastic wrap, and make sure the lid fits securely so the paint does not leak. Then, store the paint can upside down. The paint will create a tight seal around the lid, keeping the paint fresh for years.
Use up all your paint — Leftover paint can be used on touch-up jobs and smaller projects. You also can blend and mix smaller quantities of similar colors of latex paint to use as a primer on larger jobs, or jobs where the final finish is not critical. (Always make sure you read and follow all label instructions when applying paint.)
Recycle the empty paint can — Once you have used up your paint, recycle the empty steel paint cans. Each paint can you recycle is one less can that ends up in a landfill! In some areas, plastic paint pails and containers also may be recyclable, so be sure to check the requirements for your community.
Donate or exchange your paint — If you just can’t use your leftover paint, donate it to community groups, theater groups, schools, churches and others who need or want it. You may even be able to take a tax deduction! Another good way to get rid of your unwanted leftover paint is to participate in — or organize — a neighbor-to-neighbor or community-wide paint exchange/paint swap. Some communities even hold these along with their household waste collection events.
Dispose of paint properly — If you need to dispose of leftover paint, make sure you do it properly. Let your leftover latex paint air-dry away from children and pets. Pour the latex paint into a paper box or bag and add absorbent material like shredded newspaper or kitty litter to speed drying. Recycle the empty can, and then throw the dried paint away with your normal trash. (Note: If you live in California, Washington or Minnesota, your state may require special disposal considerations for latex-based paints, so be sure to check.)
Remember, air-drying liquid solvent-based paint is generally not recommended, but if the paint has already solidified in a closed can, you can dispose of it in the regular trash. Liquid solvent-based paint should not be discarded with normal trash. You should save it for a household hazardous waste collection program in your community. Many municipalities provide household hazardous waste service, which is applicable for solvent-based paint.
Recycled steel paint cans, aerosol cans, automobiles, steel construction materials, and many other steel products end up in new steel products. Most all of today’s steel products contain recycled steel, and can be recycled again. Steel’s magnetic attraction allows steel products to be easily separated from other recyclables.
Recycling is good for the Earth and good for future generations. Many communities have curbside recycling services. Also there are recycling centers all across the country where items can be brought. A lot of recycling centers will pay you for dropping off recyclable goods.
The Steel Recycling Institute (SRI) plays a big part in the education of the economic and environmental benefits of recycling steel.
The National Paint and Coatings Association offer these suggestions for disposing of paint:
Buy only the paint you need — First, always buy only what you need. That way, you reduce the chance of having any paint leftover.
Store paint so it lasts for years — Just cover the opening with plastic wrap, and make sure the lid fits securely so the paint does not leak. Then, store the paint can upside down. The paint will create a tight seal around the lid, keeping the paint fresh for years.
Use up all your paint — Leftover paint can be used on touch-up jobs and smaller projects. You also can blend and mix smaller quantities of similar colors of latex paint to use as a primer on larger jobs, or jobs where the final finish is not critical. (Always make sure you read and follow all label instructions when applying paint.)
Recycle the empty paint can — Once you have used up your paint, recycle the empty steel paint cans. Each paint can you recycle is one less can that ends up in a landfill! In some areas, plastic paint pails and containers also may be recyclable, so be sure to check the requirements for your community.
Donate or exchange your paint — If you just can’t use your leftover paint, donate it to community groups, theater groups, schools, churches and others who need or want it. You may even be able to take a tax deduction! Another good way to get rid of your unwanted leftover paint is to participate in — or organize — a neighbor-to-neighbor or community-wide paint exchange/paint swap. Some communities even hold these along with their household waste collection events.
Dispose of paint properly — If you need to dispose of leftover paint, make sure you do it properly. Let your leftover latex paint air-dry away from children and pets. Pour the latex paint into a paper box or bag and add absorbent material like shredded newspaper or kitty litter to speed drying. Recycle the empty can, and then throw the dried paint away with your normal trash. (Note: If you live in California, Washington or Minnesota, your state may require special disposal considerations for latex-based paints, so be sure to check.)
Remember, air-drying liquid solvent-based paint is generally not recommended, but if the paint has already solidified in a closed can, you can dispose of it in the regular trash. Liquid solvent-based paint should not be discarded with normal trash. You should save it for a household hazardous waste collection program in your community. Many municipalities provide household hazardous waste service, which is applicable for solvent-based paint.
Recycled steel paint cans, aerosol cans, automobiles, steel construction materials, and many other steel products end up in new steel products. Most all of today’s steel products contain recycled steel, and can be recycled again. Steel’s magnetic attraction allows steel products to be easily separated from other recyclables.
Recycling is good for the Earth and good for future generations. Many communities have curbside recycling services. Also there are recycling centers all across the country where items can be brought. A lot of recycling centers will pay you for dropping off recyclable goods.
The Steel Recycling Institute (SRI) plays a big part in the education of the economic and environmental benefits of recycling steel.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
The 10 Most Common Home Defects
My advice for Homeowners on Planning Ahead for Repairs
Although some homeowners don’t like to admit it, no house is perfect. Even the best built and maintained homes will always have items in less than perfect condition. In order to help homeowners start planning ahead for repairs, here is a list of the 10 most common home defects that frequently arise.
Many homeowners are unfamiliar with common problems a house can develop. Being aware of these home defects now can not only save in expensive repairs in the future, but also adds to the value of the home if the house should be put up for sale.”
10 Most Common Home Defects
Poor Drainage- Improper drainage can lead to water intrusion in the basement of homes and even severely compromised foundations.
Failing or Aging Heating and Cooling Systems- Older heating and cooling systems require maintenance and may be energy inefficient. There is also the risk that they can emit dangerous carbon monoxide fumes that are harmful to the family.
Environmental Hazards- Older homes may contain lead-based paint, high levels of carbon monoxide, radon, toxic molds, and even asbestos.
Inadequate Ventilation- This occurs when moisture accumulates in homes which damages interior walls and structural elements.
Improper Maintenance- Taking poor care of your household appliances can create consequences. Simple actions like cleaning out the lint trap in the clothes dryer can help prevent a fire.
Plumbing Problems- The pipes under your sink can be made of incompatible materials that lead to dripping faucets, leaking fixtures, and slow drains.
Roof Problems- The roof of your home may contain old or damaged shingles and improper flashing due to rain. The overall structure of the roof may be affected because of improperly installed collar ties and ridge beam supports.
No Permit- Many homes do not have permits for finished basements, deck additions, and hot tub and pool additions. This can lead to unnecessary fines when putting the house up for sale.
Electrical Safety Issues- A home with an out-of-date or insufficient electrical system can lead to fires and electric shock. Examples of other electrical safety hazards are ungrounded outlets, lack of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI), aluminum wiring, and faulty wiring conditions in electrical panels or elsewhere in a building. These are potentially hazardous defects and not to be taken lightly.
Rotted Wood- Wood placed around areas that are frequently wet can begin to rot. Wood around bathtubs, showers, and toilets are especially defective. The exterior of the home, including the outside trim of the house, decks, and roof eaves, should also be checked regularly for signs of rotting.
Knowing the top 10 most common house defects can help you prepare to put your home on the market. Check these areas of the home often to prevent damage and provide repairs when needed.
Call your local handyman and take a kid fishing.
Although some homeowners don’t like to admit it, no house is perfect. Even the best built and maintained homes will always have items in less than perfect condition. In order to help homeowners start planning ahead for repairs, here is a list of the 10 most common home defects that frequently arise.
Many homeowners are unfamiliar with common problems a house can develop. Being aware of these home defects now can not only save in expensive repairs in the future, but also adds to the value of the home if the house should be put up for sale.”
10 Most Common Home Defects
Poor Drainage- Improper drainage can lead to water intrusion in the basement of homes and even severely compromised foundations.
Failing or Aging Heating and Cooling Systems- Older heating and cooling systems require maintenance and may be energy inefficient. There is also the risk that they can emit dangerous carbon monoxide fumes that are harmful to the family.
Environmental Hazards- Older homes may contain lead-based paint, high levels of carbon monoxide, radon, toxic molds, and even asbestos.
Inadequate Ventilation- This occurs when moisture accumulates in homes which damages interior walls and structural elements.
Improper Maintenance- Taking poor care of your household appliances can create consequences. Simple actions like cleaning out the lint trap in the clothes dryer can help prevent a fire.
Plumbing Problems- The pipes under your sink can be made of incompatible materials that lead to dripping faucets, leaking fixtures, and slow drains.
Roof Problems- The roof of your home may contain old or damaged shingles and improper flashing due to rain. The overall structure of the roof may be affected because of improperly installed collar ties and ridge beam supports.
No Permit- Many homes do not have permits for finished basements, deck additions, and hot tub and pool additions. This can lead to unnecessary fines when putting the house up for sale.
Electrical Safety Issues- A home with an out-of-date or insufficient electrical system can lead to fires and electric shock. Examples of other electrical safety hazards are ungrounded outlets, lack of Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI), aluminum wiring, and faulty wiring conditions in electrical panels or elsewhere in a building. These are potentially hazardous defects and not to be taken lightly.
Rotted Wood- Wood placed around areas that are frequently wet can begin to rot. Wood around bathtubs, showers, and toilets are especially defective. The exterior of the home, including the outside trim of the house, decks, and roof eaves, should also be checked regularly for signs of rotting.
Knowing the top 10 most common house defects can help you prepare to put your home on the market. Check these areas of the home often to prevent damage and provide repairs when needed.
Call your local handyman and take a kid fishing.
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Eye Sore
Here are some more examples of handyman questions I have receive, and this one was a little different than my normal questions.
Here it is:
In preparing to sell my late mother's home, I need advise on a situation. It is a ranch house on a slab. During the building process of this house there was a threat of a class action suit regarding pest control/Styrofoam edging around the slab. The pest control contractor "solved" this problem by installing a concrete apron around the slab (6 inches wide, 2 inches deep around the entire perimeter). I can't see that this really did anything but make the house look undesirable because the concrete is broken every two feet and broken away from the slab. The Styrofoam has been cut away at ground level. Should I just remove this concrete?
The Styrofoam was a bad idea to start with, it would wick moisture up and increases the chance of insect intrusion. The concrete was almost as bad. Having the Styrofoam cut away is the best thing you could do.
Removing the concrete will not hurt a thing, in fact it could help. You can replace the concrete with dirt, or you can use decorative gravel.
Another thing you may consider is making sure that the gutters and downspouts are working properly. It is equally important to make sure that where the downspouts terminate there is a splash block or some way to get the water away from the foundation.
Water control is important!
Remember "Call your handyman and go fishing"
Here it is:
In preparing to sell my late mother's home, I need advise on a situation. It is a ranch house on a slab. During the building process of this house there was a threat of a class action suit regarding pest control/Styrofoam edging around the slab. The pest control contractor "solved" this problem by installing a concrete apron around the slab (6 inches wide, 2 inches deep around the entire perimeter). I can't see that this really did anything but make the house look undesirable because the concrete is broken every two feet and broken away from the slab. The Styrofoam has been cut away at ground level. Should I just remove this concrete?
The Styrofoam was a bad idea to start with, it would wick moisture up and increases the chance of insect intrusion. The concrete was almost as bad. Having the Styrofoam cut away is the best thing you could do.
Removing the concrete will not hurt a thing, in fact it could help. You can replace the concrete with dirt, or you can use decorative gravel.
Another thing you may consider is making sure that the gutters and downspouts are working properly. It is equally important to make sure that where the downspouts terminate there is a splash block or some way to get the water away from the foundation.
Water control is important!
Remember "Call your handyman and go fishing"
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