Tuesday, September 30, 2008
More Safety is not too Much
When I think of household safety, the first place I think of is the garage. The potential dangers that an attached garage offers, can be eliminated by following this garage safety checklist:
• Do not store solvents or gas in glass containers
• Vent the garage when using solvents
• Store oily rags in metal coffee cans
• Store garden tools on the wall or a storage rack (out of the reach of children)
• Make sure that power tools are properly grounded
• Never start a car in the garage with the door closed (not even for a short time)
• Let the lawnmower cool down before you return it to the garage
• Any gas burning appliance (water-heater) must be a minimum of eighteen inches off the garage floor
• The door from the garage to the house must have a self-closing device
This list would not be complete without including the garage door. After all
the garage door is the largest door in the home yet many people tend to use it as the main exit and entrance to their homes. With the convenience of automatic door openers, not to mention the remotes we carry in our cars, it’s easier to use than the front door. What would the kids do without the numeric keypads into which they punch their codes, to get in the house? We bring our cars and bikes in and out, and don’t forget lawn mowers, garden tools and whatever. The point is, this door is well used, but how safe is it?
Automatic garage door openers have been around a lot longer than safety devices for them, or for that matter safety regulations for them. Garage doors with openers that either did not have safety devices, or had defective safety devices, have been blamed for causing serious injury and even death. Children and pets have been the primary victims. The car you have seen with a crease on the hood, is a good indication of these older heavy doors without properly working safety devices.
For example, an older double garage door can weigh over four hundred pounds, while a new door of the same size can weigh less than half that. If you have an older door and a safety that does not work, what you have here is an accident waiting to happen! This is a good reason why all new automatic openers must have a pressure sensitive auto-reversing device and a photoelectric-reversing device.
You can check your garage door opener safety devices by following these tips:
1. Look for photoelectric eyes near the floor on both sides of the door.
• If you have photoelectric eyes- test them by blocking the beam
between the eyes as the door is closing, and the door should
automatically reverse.
• If you do not have a photoelectric-reversing-device, you need to check your pressure- sensitive device.
• To do this, try to stop the door with your hand (be careful not to be under the door). Before the pressure gets too hard on you, the door should reverse
• If the door does not reverse, call a service person to adjust this.
• If you have none of these safety devices, then it is time to replace that old opener.
2. Another safety check is your springs.
• Check to see what type of springs you have. If you have a spring that runs along the top of the garage door on a bar, then you have a torsion spring. This type is usually safe if it breaks, because the spring will stay on the bar.
• If you have two springs that run overhead parallel with the track, then you have extension springs. You need to check these springs for cables running through them. These cables will contain the spring if it breaks. Without these cables a broken spring can be very dangerous. If you do not have a safety cable call a service person.
3. Also, annually check that all nuts and bolts on the rails and rollers are tight. This will help limit wear on your motor.
Remember the first step to keep your family safe begins with keeping your house safe.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Is Your Home Safe?
As a handyman I try to provide my clients with tips about potential hidden home hazards. It is important for a homeowner to know their home and how to keep it safe.
There is no place like home, but in reality-your house may not be as safe as you would like to believe. From inhaling toxic fumes to fire hazards, common household items could actually be hidden home hazards. But, the vast majority of tragic occurrences from dangers in the home, such as death or injury, are entirely preventable.
Dryer Vent: Lint building up in a dryer vent is an extreme fire hazard. A dryer should not be operated without a lint filer. But even with one, some lint sticks and can still build up, with the dryer’s hot air causing it to catch on fire. It is important for vents to be cleaned out frequently, and if the vent is too long, a professional should be hired to thoroughly clean it as needed. If your dryer is running slower than usual, or barely drying during a cycle, it probably is time to check and clean the vent.
Environmental Dangers: Household pollutants, such as these environmental hazards, can be especially dangerous when infiltrated in the home:
Mold- Mold is a type of fungi that can grow in damp or wet areas of the home. Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints. Frequent disinfecting of surfaces and reducing indoor humidity will help minimize mold.
Radon- The second leading cause of lung cancer, radon is an odorless, colorless gas that seeps into homes from small spaces and cracks. Doing a home test is the only way to determine if there are dangerous levels of radon.
Lead- If your home was built before 1980, there is a chance that lead paint could be in it. The particles from the paint can be inhaled as it deteriorates. But there are many ways in which individuals are exposed to lead including through air, drinking water, food, contaminated soil, and dust. Hire a professional to examine any potential lead products.
Asbestos- A mineral fiber that is commonly found in older homes was used in a variety of building construction materials for insulation and as a fire-retardant. The only way to tell if an object contains asbestos by looking at it is if the material is labeled.
Carbon Monoxide: Dubbed as the “secret home killer”, this odorless gas can build up to dangerous levels in a home without anyone knowing. The best defense is to have all appliances properly checked out, never leave a car running in a garage, and to purchase a CO Monitor. Don’t forget to test the monitor regularly.
Heating System: Even during the half of the year when home heating systems are not in use, including the heater, pipes, ducts, and chimney, they still pose a threat. Check out pilot lights, any frayed wires, and a professional inspection should be done before it is turned on in the fall. Chimney’s should be cleaned of debris and soot, and never blocked. Any blockage can cause smoke or gases to be pushed into the home.
Electrical: In a typical year, the U.S. Fire Administration estimates that electrical problems in the home can account for 67,800 fires and $868 million dollars in property loss damage. Wires, outlets, cords, plugs, and lightbulbs should all be thoroughly examined. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI’s) can help prevent electrocution. When a GFCI senses current leakage in an electrical circuit, it assumes a ground fault has occurred. It then interrupts power fast enough to help prevent serious injury from electrical shock.
The above suggestions may require professional assistance from your local handyman to ensure proper installation.
There is no place like home, but in reality-your house may not be as safe as you would like to believe. From inhaling toxic fumes to fire hazards, common household items could actually be hidden home hazards. But, the vast majority of tragic occurrences from dangers in the home, such as death or injury, are entirely preventable.
Dryer Vent: Lint building up in a dryer vent is an extreme fire hazard. A dryer should not be operated without a lint filer. But even with one, some lint sticks and can still build up, with the dryer’s hot air causing it to catch on fire. It is important for vents to be cleaned out frequently, and if the vent is too long, a professional should be hired to thoroughly clean it as needed. If your dryer is running slower than usual, or barely drying during a cycle, it probably is time to check and clean the vent.
Environmental Dangers: Household pollutants, such as these environmental hazards, can be especially dangerous when infiltrated in the home:
Mold- Mold is a type of fungi that can grow in damp or wet areas of the home. Potential health effects and symptoms associated with mold exposures include allergic reactions, asthma, and other respiratory complaints. Frequent disinfecting of surfaces and reducing indoor humidity will help minimize mold.
Radon- The second leading cause of lung cancer, radon is an odorless, colorless gas that seeps into homes from small spaces and cracks. Doing a home test is the only way to determine if there are dangerous levels of radon.
Lead- If your home was built before 1980, there is a chance that lead paint could be in it. The particles from the paint can be inhaled as it deteriorates. But there are many ways in which individuals are exposed to lead including through air, drinking water, food, contaminated soil, and dust. Hire a professional to examine any potential lead products.
Asbestos- A mineral fiber that is commonly found in older homes was used in a variety of building construction materials for insulation and as a fire-retardant. The only way to tell if an object contains asbestos by looking at it is if the material is labeled.
Carbon Monoxide: Dubbed as the “secret home killer”, this odorless gas can build up to dangerous levels in a home without anyone knowing. The best defense is to have all appliances properly checked out, never leave a car running in a garage, and to purchase a CO Monitor. Don’t forget to test the monitor regularly.
Heating System: Even during the half of the year when home heating systems are not in use, including the heater, pipes, ducts, and chimney, they still pose a threat. Check out pilot lights, any frayed wires, and a professional inspection should be done before it is turned on in the fall. Chimney’s should be cleaned of debris and soot, and never blocked. Any blockage can cause smoke or gases to be pushed into the home.
Electrical: In a typical year, the U.S. Fire Administration estimates that electrical problems in the home can account for 67,800 fires and $868 million dollars in property loss damage. Wires, outlets, cords, plugs, and lightbulbs should all be thoroughly examined. Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI’s) can help prevent electrocution. When a GFCI senses current leakage in an electrical circuit, it assumes a ground fault has occurred. It then interrupts power fast enough to help prevent serious injury from electrical shock.
The above suggestions may require professional assistance from your local handyman to ensure proper installation.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
A Handyman in Time
Winter is coming, and it always does before we are ready. It is not too early to consider a little preventive maintenance. This is a good time to have your local handyman come over for a visit. For the most part, winter brings on a whole new dimension in house maintenance. Even in places that are likely to have mild winters, there is still a need to prepare for the change in weather. Here is a list of things to consider:
1. Let’s start with the exterior of the house:
· Drain the garden hoses
· Check hose bibs (if you are in a cold climate) check for unprotected pipes
· Close those vents to crawl spaces (especially near plumbing)
· Get the gutters cleaned and inspect them to assure they are securely attached and working properly
· Trim trees and remove the dead branches
· If you have storm windows that are removed – reinstall them
· If you have a basement, check to see if the windows are shut tightly.
· Check chimneys for lose, deteriorated, or missing mortar
· Examine caulking for deterioration around doors, windows, and joints between wood and masonry
· Replace worn weather-stripping around exterior doors
.
2. With the onset of winter, you will start hearing a lot more about fire prevention. This is because with the colder weather, heat systems and auxiliary heating devices are used in the home, adding to the risk of fire. These devices should be checked for safety, of course.
Now is also a good time to:
· Check your smoke detectors and change the batteries
· Check your C.O. detector (if you do not have one – it is a small investment for your safety)
· Plan an escape plan with your family in case of fire (and have a practice drill)
· Talk to your children about fire prevention
· Check that garage for flammable items – making sure they are stored properly
· Check your fire extinguisher (keep one in the kitchen – they are inexpensive)
3. Before cold weather, you need to have your fireplace inspected and chimney cleaned before using your fireplace.
4. Have your heating system inspected. With regular servicing of your heating system, you benefit by burning less fuel and a system that gets regular service is less likely to break down.
5. Gas-fired furnaces should be serviced yearly and inspected. Since gas-fired furnaces burn cleaner than oil-fired furnaces, you need not have the flue cleaned every year, but the flue should be checked to make sure there are no obstructions. Your service tech will:
· Check for C.O. leaks
· Inspect the blower system
· Inspect gas lines
· Inspect flue system
· Check filter
· Check Heat Exchanger
6. You can save yourself costly repair by just changing your furnace filter on a regular basis. Remember, even in the summer you need to change your filter if you have central air conditioning. The blower on your furnace is the same one that circulates the cold air.
7. Oil-fired furnaces need to be serviced annually as well. Since oil does not burn as clean as gas, the flue needs to be inspected every year. Depending on the age of the unit and how clean it burns, the flue may have to be cleaned annually as well.
8. Boilers need to be serviced annually whether they are hot-water systems or steam.
9. Heat pumps and electric furnaces also need to have annual inspection to prevent untimely breakdowns.
10. Outside air conditioning units and swamp coolers should be covered
The cost of annual maintenance is a small price to pay for the safety and comfort of you and your family. Keep your home safe and comfortable.
1. Let’s start with the exterior of the house:
· Drain the garden hoses
· Check hose bibs (if you are in a cold climate) check for unprotected pipes
· Close those vents to crawl spaces (especially near plumbing)
· Get the gutters cleaned and inspect them to assure they are securely attached and working properly
· Trim trees and remove the dead branches
· If you have storm windows that are removed – reinstall them
· If you have a basement, check to see if the windows are shut tightly.
· Check chimneys for lose, deteriorated, or missing mortar
· Examine caulking for deterioration around doors, windows, and joints between wood and masonry
· Replace worn weather-stripping around exterior doors
.
2. With the onset of winter, you will start hearing a lot more about fire prevention. This is because with the colder weather, heat systems and auxiliary heating devices are used in the home, adding to the risk of fire. These devices should be checked for safety, of course.
Now is also a good time to:
· Check your smoke detectors and change the batteries
· Check your C.O. detector (if you do not have one – it is a small investment for your safety)
· Plan an escape plan with your family in case of fire (and have a practice drill)
· Talk to your children about fire prevention
· Check that garage for flammable items – making sure they are stored properly
· Check your fire extinguisher (keep one in the kitchen – they are inexpensive)
3. Before cold weather, you need to have your fireplace inspected and chimney cleaned before using your fireplace.
4. Have your heating system inspected. With regular servicing of your heating system, you benefit by burning less fuel and a system that gets regular service is less likely to break down.
5. Gas-fired furnaces should be serviced yearly and inspected. Since gas-fired furnaces burn cleaner than oil-fired furnaces, you need not have the flue cleaned every year, but the flue should be checked to make sure there are no obstructions. Your service tech will:
· Check for C.O. leaks
· Inspect the blower system
· Inspect gas lines
· Inspect flue system
· Check filter
· Check Heat Exchanger
6. You can save yourself costly repair by just changing your furnace filter on a regular basis. Remember, even in the summer you need to change your filter if you have central air conditioning. The blower on your furnace is the same one that circulates the cold air.
7. Oil-fired furnaces need to be serviced annually as well. Since oil does not burn as clean as gas, the flue needs to be inspected every year. Depending on the age of the unit and how clean it burns, the flue may have to be cleaned annually as well.
8. Boilers need to be serviced annually whether they are hot-water systems or steam.
9. Heat pumps and electric furnaces also need to have annual inspection to prevent untimely breakdowns.
10. Outside air conditioning units and swamp coolers should be covered
The cost of annual maintenance is a small price to pay for the safety and comfort of you and your family. Keep your home safe and comfortable.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Floored
I have always encouraged homeowners to learn to make small repairs, but I also encourage homeowners not to try repairs that are out of their comfort zone. Here is an example of questions I receive about small repairs:
The Client wrote:
We recently purchased an older house that has just been completely remolded. The kitchen has a new one-piece linoleum floor that was perfect, until we moved our refrigerator into the kitchen. We caught the leg of the refrigerator on the floor and put a ten-inch rip in the new linoleum. We have a leftover piece of linoleum, but it is not big enough to do the whole floor.
Is there anything we can do short of replacing the whole floor?
My reply:
Since you have a piece of the old floor you are in luck. You can patch the bad area, and in most cases the patch is undetectable. Here is a list of things you will need to do the job:
A very sharp utility knife
A steel straightedge
Masking tape
A sharp putty knife
Floor adhesive
A small notched trowel
Let’s get started by following the steps below:
Cut a piece of flooring larger than the repair
Tape the piece to the floor, matching the pattern
With the utility knife, and using the straightedge, cut through the patch and press hard enough to cut the old flooring also. Tip: if the flooring has a pattern, try to cut in it, this will help hide the cut.
With the putty knife, remove old flooring, and glue.
Make sure the surface is clean
With the notched trowel apply a thin layer of adhesive; keep it about a half-inch away from the edges.
Put the patch in place and press the patch in place until it is level with the rest of the flooring.
This method works great.
The other way to make these repairs is to call your local handyman an go fishing.
The Client wrote:
We recently purchased an older house that has just been completely remolded. The kitchen has a new one-piece linoleum floor that was perfect, until we moved our refrigerator into the kitchen. We caught the leg of the refrigerator on the floor and put a ten-inch rip in the new linoleum. We have a leftover piece of linoleum, but it is not big enough to do the whole floor.
Is there anything we can do short of replacing the whole floor?
My reply:
Since you have a piece of the old floor you are in luck. You can patch the bad area, and in most cases the patch is undetectable. Here is a list of things you will need to do the job:
A very sharp utility knife
A steel straightedge
Masking tape
A sharp putty knife
Floor adhesive
A small notched trowel
Let’s get started by following the steps below:
Cut a piece of flooring larger than the repair
Tape the piece to the floor, matching the pattern
With the utility knife, and using the straightedge, cut through the patch and press hard enough to cut the old flooring also. Tip: if the flooring has a pattern, try to cut in it, this will help hide the cut.
With the putty knife, remove old flooring, and glue.
Make sure the surface is clean
With the notched trowel apply a thin layer of adhesive; keep it about a half-inch away from the edges.
Put the patch in place and press the patch in place until it is level with the rest of the flooring.
This method works great.
The other way to make these repairs is to call your local handyman an go fishing.
Friday, September 19, 2008
Listen to Your Kids
As a handyman I encourage my clients to call at the first sign of a problem, because little things can led to costly repairs if they are not corrected right away. I have seen low cost repairs deferred and turn into an expensive repair. I had a client call me when the ceiling in the kitchen was lying on the kitchen table. I found the upstairs toilet loose and the wax ring on the toilet was leaking. When I asked the client about it, she said that the toilet had been loose for six months or more. The toilet repair was inexpensive, but by waiting on the toilet repair they got a large bill from me to repair the ceiling in the kitchen.
Here is an example of an eight-year-old finding this type of problem early enough:
The Client Wrote:
We have lived in our two-story house for ten years, with very little maintenance problems. But just last week I noticed a stain on the first floor ceiling, right below the upstairs bathroom. My eight year old mentioned to me that the toilet up stairs was loose. After seeing the stain, I went up and checked the toilet, to find it is loose.
Can this be the cause of the stain?
My Reply:
It is likely that this could be the cause of your stain. There is a waxed ring in between the toilet and where it attaches to the base drain. This waxed ring makes a tight seal to prevent leaking at this connection. When this seal is in working order, the toilet is tight. If the toilet gets loose, the wax ring is not making a good seal, and leaking can occur. You should replace the wax ring as soon as possible to avoid costly ceiling repairs.
Call your local handyman and take the kid fishing.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Keep it Dry
As a handyman I see different defects that can contribute to costly repairs if preventive maintenance is defered. There are many preventive maintenance jobs that your local handyman can perform to save you from costly repairs in the future.
Of all the possible defects that can be found in residential construction, the biggest contributor to major costly repairs is poor drainage. The drainage system of residential construction starts with the roof, gutters, downspouts, and proper grading. In many cases poor drainage is in the design of the house, for example:
*The use of undersized gutters
*Long spans of gutters without adequate slope
*Not enough fasteners on the gutters
*Little or no roof overhang
*The use of undersized downspouts
*Downspouts that terminate without a splash block or ground leader
*Not enough backfill around the foundation
*Hillside construction with poor drainage
*Home built on a lot that is too low
Some of these deficiencies can be corrected at a low cost, while others are too costly to change but can still be dealt with in different ways. For example, a home that is built on a low lot needs to be monitored and regularly maintained to prevent long term damage due to water.
Poor drainage can cause a multitude of problems; some can even cause health problems related to the build up of mold.
Wet soil in crawl spaces creates humid conditions for mold to thrive. Along with proper drainage, the use of a vapor barrier and open vents will help keep the crawl space dry and deter the growth of mold.
Basements are also a common place to experience moisture problems, even with proper drainage. The best preventative in this situation is regular cleaning and a dehumidifier.
One of the most common mistakes is adding soil around the foundation at levels high enough to come in contact with the wood on the house. This can cause rot and insect infestation.
Another common problem exists because, when soil is excavated to construct a foundation, the soil that is removed usually extends three to five feet wider than the foundation. After the foundation is built, the remaining void needs to be backfilled. Ideally the backfill soil should be compacted to prevent settlement.
The replaced soil is not going to be compacted as well as it was before it was disturbed, and it will settle. This will form a depression that will collect water in the worst place, against the foundation. If this foundation is a basement, that scenario can cause very costly problems. Extreme cases of water and soil pressure (hydrostatic pressure) can result in the collapsing of the basement walls. Hydrostatic pressure is irreversible, and once it starts, if not corrected will result in very costly repairs. Early detection and preventive maintenance is your best defense in the battle with poor drainage.
Proper drainage should lead water away from the sidewalls and the foundation of the house. Here are some tips to help you accomplish this:
*Add soil to settled areas
*Make sure the downspouts discharge three to five feet away from the foundation
*If the downspouts discharge underground, make sure the ground leaders stay clear
*Make sure the gutters and downspouts stay free of debris
*Keep gutters tightly attached (gutters that are poorly attached allow water to run down the sidewalls and to the foundation)
*Caulk any joints where a sidewalk or drive meets the foundation
*Check for positive grading around the foundation
*Avoid heavy watering of plants or gardens that are against the house
Remember that awareness of proper drainage and preventive maintenance will help keep your wallet high and dry from the flood of costly repairs.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
The Burn Off
As a handyman I receive a wide verity of questions from homeowners, especially when they have just moved to another home. I try to encourage all of my clients to read or at least keep all of their operation manual for future reference.
Here is an example of a question from a new homeowner;
The Client Wrote:
We recently moved into a new house, and this house has a new never-been-used prefab fireplace. This fireplace has gas logs -- not real wood. We have never had a fireplace before, and did not know what to expect. When I tried to use it for the first time, the odor was very strong, and we turned it off.
What causes odors during operation?
Is this something that is going to always happen?
Is this a danger?
We would appreciate any help.
My Reply:
This is normal for a new unit to give off some odor the first time it is used. Many manufacturers do require an initial burn-off time, because, some units do emit an odor when operated for the first time due to burn-off of excess paint and machine oil. After the initial burn-off, odors during operation should not be apparent. If there are still odors after the burn-off, then you need to have the cause determined by a qualified service person.
If you do not have the owner’s manual for the unit, ask your builder for a copy. Reading the owner’s manual will help you use your unit safely.
Here is an example of a question from a new homeowner;
The Client Wrote:
We recently moved into a new house, and this house has a new never-been-used prefab fireplace. This fireplace has gas logs -- not real wood. We have never had a fireplace before, and did not know what to expect. When I tried to use it for the first time, the odor was very strong, and we turned it off.
What causes odors during operation?
Is this something that is going to always happen?
Is this a danger?
We would appreciate any help.
My Reply:
This is normal for a new unit to give off some odor the first time it is used. Many manufacturers do require an initial burn-off time, because, some units do emit an odor when operated for the first time due to burn-off of excess paint and machine oil. After the initial burn-off, odors during operation should not be apparent. If there are still odors after the burn-off, then you need to have the cause determined by a qualified service person.
If you do not have the owner’s manual for the unit, ask your builder for a copy. Reading the owner’s manual will help you use your unit safely.
Friday, September 12, 2008
INSULATING AN A-FRAME
As a Handyman I often receive questions about insulation, here is one example:
The Client wrote:
I have an A-frame three-story home. The third floor is used as living space, leaving only the area between the plaster ceiling and the roof for insulation. I was considering blowing in cellulose insulation to fill these six inches of space, but I have some concerns:
v Would six inches of cellulose insulation make much difference?
v Would this cause the roof not to breathe and lead to roof damage (the insulation would block the surface vents along the roof)
What can I do?
My reply:
According to The U.S. Department of Energy, up to forty-five percent of our home's energy losses are through the roof. With this in mind, any insulation you can add will help.
To answer your first question, cellulose insulation is a great choice, especially since you have very limited space. Cellulose has a high R-factor per inch in comparison with other types of insulation. If you can get six inches of cellulose insulation installed, that would give you around an R-22 value. The suggested R-value for attic spaces in the U.S. range from R-19, in the warmer parts of the country, to R-49 in the colder parts. Normally, I would recommend that you check with your local Building Department to find out what R-factor is recommended in your area. Since you only have six inches of space with which to work, you are not going to do better than minimums anyway. R-22 is worth it in any part of the country.
As you know, venting the attic space is very important no matter how small the space. A well-vented attic space makes for a healthier house, but since you only have a six-inch space with which to work, it makes it difficult to insulate and ventilate this space. Your situation is truly a hard one to rectify, but there are special venting systems made for these difficult-to-ventilate spaces. If you were going to fill this space with cellulose, I would recommend using a specialty vent called an Air Chute. This vent is installed in each rafter space, and needs to be vented at the bottom either in a soffit or an attic space.
Depending on your style of roof, it makes a difference how you vent the topside; normally this is done with a ridge vent. These “AIR CHUTE” vents are made of different materials. I prefer the plastic ones, when installing them in a retrofit situation. The cardboard ones are great in new construction because you can staple them up between the rafters as you go, but in your case you will not be able to attach them. The plastic ones will allow you to shove them in between the rafters and the insulation will hold them up against the bottom of the roof.
CALL YOUR HANDYMAN AND TAKE A KID FISHING
The Client wrote:
I have an A-frame three-story home. The third floor is used as living space, leaving only the area between the plaster ceiling and the roof for insulation. I was considering blowing in cellulose insulation to fill these six inches of space, but I have some concerns:
v Would six inches of cellulose insulation make much difference?
v Would this cause the roof not to breathe and lead to roof damage (the insulation would block the surface vents along the roof)
What can I do?
My reply:
According to The U.S. Department of Energy, up to forty-five percent of our home's energy losses are through the roof. With this in mind, any insulation you can add will help.
To answer your first question, cellulose insulation is a great choice, especially since you have very limited space. Cellulose has a high R-factor per inch in comparison with other types of insulation. If you can get six inches of cellulose insulation installed, that would give you around an R-22 value. The suggested R-value for attic spaces in the U.S. range from R-19, in the warmer parts of the country, to R-49 in the colder parts. Normally, I would recommend that you check with your local Building Department to find out what R-factor is recommended in your area. Since you only have six inches of space with which to work, you are not going to do better than minimums anyway. R-22 is worth it in any part of the country.
As you know, venting the attic space is very important no matter how small the space. A well-vented attic space makes for a healthier house, but since you only have a six-inch space with which to work, it makes it difficult to insulate and ventilate this space. Your situation is truly a hard one to rectify, but there are special venting systems made for these difficult-to-ventilate spaces. If you were going to fill this space with cellulose, I would recommend using a specialty vent called an Air Chute. This vent is installed in each rafter space, and needs to be vented at the bottom either in a soffit or an attic space.
Depending on your style of roof, it makes a difference how you vent the topside; normally this is done with a ridge vent. These “AIR CHUTE” vents are made of different materials. I prefer the plastic ones, when installing them in a retrofit situation. The cardboard ones are great in new construction because you can staple them up between the rafters as you go, but in your case you will not be able to attach them. The plastic ones will allow you to shove them in between the rafters and the insulation will hold them up against the bottom of the roof.
CALL YOUR HANDYMAN AND TAKE A KID FISHING
Thursday, September 11, 2008
Preparing for the Fall
As the days slowly become shorter, it is now time to focus on preparing your home for the fall. Advance preparations can save energy, increase safety and allow for an easy transition into the autumn months. Your local professional handyman can help with many of these recommendations:
Weatherize to Keep Your Home Energy-Tight
Use caulk on your home's exterior to seal out moisture and outside air; at the same time, it helps keep heat indoors. Caulk creates a tight moisture barrier which prevents rain and snow from seeping into gaps and joints, causing wood to rot and paint to blister.
Place a dollar bill between the door and the jamb or the window sash and sill. With the door or window closed, attempt to remove the bill. If it slides out easily, you're losing energy.
Clear Downspouts and Gutters
Avoid basement flooding and deterioration of the foundation by cleaning the gutter channels and clearing downspouts of debris. Replace deteriorating or broken gutters and downspouts.
Crank the Heat!
Turn on your furnace and give it a test-run.
Change the air filter. This will enable your heating system to run at maximum efficiency which can even help save money on heating costs.
If your home has gas heat, check the pilot light, burner and chimney flue. If not vented properly, you could have carbon monoxide building up in the house.
Prevent Trouble Down Below
There may also be things that need attending to beneath your property. For example, flush underground sprinkler systems before the cold sets in by blowing air into pipes to displace leftover water. This is important because water lines are typically only 6 to 8 inches below ground -- and prone to freezing. If they freeze and then burst, you could have a costly repair situation on your hands.
Check the Septic
Homeowners with septic tanks should also think about pumping them now -- before the ground freezes and snow buries your yard. Septic tanks should be checked once every year and cleaned no less than every three years.
Protect Your Pipes
Frozen or burst pipes are among a homeowner's worst nightmares. For a preventative measure, add insulation to pipes in unheated areas, which reduces heat loss from hot-water pipes and condensation on cold water pipes.
Install a freeze-proof outdoor faucet which will eliminate the problem of a frozen or broken spigot. These faucets employ a long stem that shuts the water off about a foot back in the house preventing the pipe from freezing.
· Conduct a Water Heater Check-Up
Just because your water heater seems to work fine now doesn't mean you should put off an annual inspection. Fall is a perfect time to have your tank's pressure and temperature relief valve inspected.
Weatherize to Keep Your Home Energy-Tight
Use caulk on your home's exterior to seal out moisture and outside air; at the same time, it helps keep heat indoors. Caulk creates a tight moisture barrier which prevents rain and snow from seeping into gaps and joints, causing wood to rot and paint to blister.
Place a dollar bill between the door and the jamb or the window sash and sill. With the door or window closed, attempt to remove the bill. If it slides out easily, you're losing energy.
Clear Downspouts and Gutters
Avoid basement flooding and deterioration of the foundation by cleaning the gutter channels and clearing downspouts of debris. Replace deteriorating or broken gutters and downspouts.
Crank the Heat!
Turn on your furnace and give it a test-run.
Change the air filter. This will enable your heating system to run at maximum efficiency which can even help save money on heating costs.
If your home has gas heat, check the pilot light, burner and chimney flue. If not vented properly, you could have carbon monoxide building up in the house.
Prevent Trouble Down Below
There may also be things that need attending to beneath your property. For example, flush underground sprinkler systems before the cold sets in by blowing air into pipes to displace leftover water. This is important because water lines are typically only 6 to 8 inches below ground -- and prone to freezing. If they freeze and then burst, you could have a costly repair situation on your hands.
Check the Septic
Homeowners with septic tanks should also think about pumping them now -- before the ground freezes and snow buries your yard. Septic tanks should be checked once every year and cleaned no less than every three years.
Protect Your Pipes
Frozen or burst pipes are among a homeowner's worst nightmares. For a preventative measure, add insulation to pipes in unheated areas, which reduces heat loss from hot-water pipes and condensation on cold water pipes.
Install a freeze-proof outdoor faucet which will eliminate the problem of a frozen or broken spigot. These faucets employ a long stem that shuts the water off about a foot back in the house preventing the pipe from freezing.
· Conduct a Water Heater Check-Up
Just because your water heater seems to work fine now doesn't mean you should put off an annual inspection. Fall is a perfect time to have your tank's pressure and temperature relief valve inspected.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Why Worrie About the Little Stuff?
Many issues that plague your home are small, but left unaddressed can fester into big problems. Many homeowners don’t n always know when they have the first onset of a problem, this is why you need a professional handyman in your life. When you have repairs or remodeling done on your home ask your handyman to take a walk around your house inside and out. Addressing issues early is the key to saving money in repairs. For example; finding the first sign of mold and taking care of the cause before it grows into a costly cleanup.
I encourage my clients to be aware of what is going on with their house to prevent costly repairs. The money you spend on preventive maintenance is like money in the bank.
Here is an example of finding things out in time;
My client wrote:
I just read your article entitled "Let your Crawlspace Breathe". We bought our house a year ago. At the time a pest Control Company did an inspection. In the report that we saw, it said that some spots of mold were seen on the baseboards. I am guessing that it is mold due to the crawlspace not being fully covered with the plastic vapor barrier.
Can this be the case? If so, whom do I call to come lay the "proper" vapor barrier to help prevent any further damage?
My reply:
Having the crawl space covered with a good plastic vapor barrier is very important. This is certainly a good step in preventing the growth of mold in your house. Anything to prevent moisture in your house will help prevent mold from being a problem.
The vapor barrier I prefer is six-mill black polyethylene.
When you install it, you want to make sure you have all the ground area covered. When you cut around pipes or anything else in your way, do it neatly to ensure minimum ground exposure.
A good place to start is to get some prices from some local handymen.
I encourage my clients to be aware of what is going on with their house to prevent costly repairs. The money you spend on preventive maintenance is like money in the bank.
Here is an example of finding things out in time;
My client wrote:
I just read your article entitled "Let your Crawlspace Breathe". We bought our house a year ago. At the time a pest Control Company did an inspection. In the report that we saw, it said that some spots of mold were seen on the baseboards. I am guessing that it is mold due to the crawlspace not being fully covered with the plastic vapor barrier.
Can this be the case? If so, whom do I call to come lay the "proper" vapor barrier to help prevent any further damage?
My reply:
Having the crawl space covered with a good plastic vapor barrier is very important. This is certainly a good step in preventing the growth of mold in your house. Anything to prevent moisture in your house will help prevent mold from being a problem.
The vapor barrier I prefer is six-mill black polyethylene.
When you install it, you want to make sure you have all the ground area covered. When you cut around pipes or anything else in your way, do it neatly to ensure minimum ground exposure.
A good place to start is to get some prices from some local handymen.
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Don't Get Fired
According to the National Fire Protection Association, each year, there are total of half a million residential fires reported and more than 4,000 Americans die in fires in their home. Property losses for residential fires total more than four billion dollars a year. With next month being National Fire Prevention Month, on behave of handymen every where here are some tips to ensure your family’s safety:
Children
· Keep lighters, matches or other flammable materials out of the reach of children.
· Babysitters should be aware of escape routes in the house as well as fire department telephone numbers.
· Do not keep items such as cookies or candy near the range or stove.
· Include small children in fire escape route planning and rehearsal. They must understand that they can't hide from fire under a bed or in a closet.
Escape Routes
· You should have a family escape plan and an alternate route. Conduct home “fire drills.”
· Your plan should include an outside meeting place to count every family member.
· You should have at least two exits from the house.
· Fire department numbers should be posted on every telephone.
Kitchen Safety
· Flammable or combustible items should not be stored above the stove.
· The stove should not be left unattended while cooking.
· Wear short or tight-fitting garments that won’t droop while cooking.
· Don’t rest or keep pot-holders, plastic utensils, towels or other non-cooking equipment on or near the range.
· A fire in a pan should be smothered with a lid—never try to put it out by throwing water on it. If cooking oil starts to smoke, turn down the heat.
· Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Electricity
· Avoid using extension cords wherever possible. Extension cords should never be run under rugs or hooked over nails, or cross over doorways.
· Check electrical cords for loose, worn or frayed cords. Unplug before inspection.
· If a fuse blows (or a breaker "trips"), find the cause. Remove excess appliances from a breaker circuit that "trips" often.
· The correct fuse size for each socket in the fuse box is 20 amps for lighting circuits.
· Kitchen appliances, such as a toaster or coffeemaker should be unplugged when not in use.
Smoke Detectors
· You should have at least one smoke detector per floor in your home, with a distinct warning signal loud enough for you to hear in your sleep. Test once per month.
· Smoke detectors should be placed near bedrooms, either on the ceiling or not more than a foot below it on the wall.
· Replace batteries according to manufacturer’s recommendations and never disconnect them.
Heaters and Heating Systems
· Operate portable electric heaters on the floor, at least three feet away from upholstered furniture, drapes, bedding and other materials, and never use them to dry anything.
· Turn heaters off when family members leave the house or are asleep.
· Do not use wood burning stoves and fireplaces unless they are properly installed and meet building codes. Use a fireplace screen to contain sparks.
· Have the chimney and the heating system checked at lease once per year by a trained professional.
· Propane tanks and other fuels, such as gasoline should be stored outside the home in an approved safety container.
Following these few safety tips will help insure your family’s safety for years to come.
Children
· Keep lighters, matches or other flammable materials out of the reach of children.
· Babysitters should be aware of escape routes in the house as well as fire department telephone numbers.
· Do not keep items such as cookies or candy near the range or stove.
· Include small children in fire escape route planning and rehearsal. They must understand that they can't hide from fire under a bed or in a closet.
Escape Routes
· You should have a family escape plan and an alternate route. Conduct home “fire drills.”
· Your plan should include an outside meeting place to count every family member.
· You should have at least two exits from the house.
· Fire department numbers should be posted on every telephone.
Kitchen Safety
· Flammable or combustible items should not be stored above the stove.
· The stove should not be left unattended while cooking.
· Wear short or tight-fitting garments that won’t droop while cooking.
· Don’t rest or keep pot-holders, plastic utensils, towels or other non-cooking equipment on or near the range.
· A fire in a pan should be smothered with a lid—never try to put it out by throwing water on it. If cooking oil starts to smoke, turn down the heat.
· Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Electricity
· Avoid using extension cords wherever possible. Extension cords should never be run under rugs or hooked over nails, or cross over doorways.
· Check electrical cords for loose, worn or frayed cords. Unplug before inspection.
· If a fuse blows (or a breaker "trips"), find the cause. Remove excess appliances from a breaker circuit that "trips" often.
· The correct fuse size for each socket in the fuse box is 20 amps for lighting circuits.
· Kitchen appliances, such as a toaster or coffeemaker should be unplugged when not in use.
Smoke Detectors
· You should have at least one smoke detector per floor in your home, with a distinct warning signal loud enough for you to hear in your sleep. Test once per month.
· Smoke detectors should be placed near bedrooms, either on the ceiling or not more than a foot below it on the wall.
· Replace batteries according to manufacturer’s recommendations and never disconnect them.
Heaters and Heating Systems
· Operate portable electric heaters on the floor, at least three feet away from upholstered furniture, drapes, bedding and other materials, and never use them to dry anything.
· Turn heaters off when family members leave the house or are asleep.
· Do not use wood burning stoves and fireplaces unless they are properly installed and meet building codes. Use a fireplace screen to contain sparks.
· Have the chimney and the heating system checked at lease once per year by a trained professional.
· Propane tanks and other fuels, such as gasoline should be stored outside the home in an approved safety container.
Following these few safety tips will help insure your family’s safety for years to come.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Damp Basement Blues
Basements are highly likely to have moisture intrusion, and often feel damp/humid. In a past post I wrote about causes of damp basements, and the importance of calling your handyman to make the proper repairs to prevent moisture in the basement. Often basements will remain damp/humid to some degree even after water control modifications have been made, depending on how well the foundation was water-proofed when the house was built. There are products that will seal a foundation from the inside of the basement. Your local handyman can recommend the proper products for your situation.
Here is a question I have received about damp/humid basements:
My Client wrote; We live in a two-story house with a full basement. The basement is normally very humid. We were told that turning on the central air and leaving the heat vents open in the basement will help lower the humidity in the basement. Is it better to have them open or closed?
My Reply; Having the vents open will help lower the humidity. But cold air falls as it is introduced into the house. So the most effective way to cool the house is to close the lower supply vents and open the upper vents. This will allow a better convection current for cooling your house.
The best way to keep the humidity low in the basement is to use a dehumidifier. I found it is worth the extra dollars to get a dehumidifier with a continuous drain hose instead of just a drain pan. Most dehumidifiers have a humidistat, which allows the appliance to turn on and off automatically as needed to maintain the proper humidity in the basement.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Kill the Ceiling
It has been my experience in the handyman business, to have clients call for a repair that has been a problem for years. Many of the problems have even disrupted their lives. I have been told by my clients over again;
“We have tried everything and we can’t fix the problem”, “We have lived with this problem for years”. And my personal favorite “I have told Jim for years that this was a problem, but he would not get off his lazy rear-end to fix it, now we have a bigger problem!-HELP!”
Here is another example of questions I have received:
Client:
We have lived in our present house since it was built and have always taken good care of it. If there was ever a problem, we took care of it right away. We wanted to keep up the regular maintenance, so we can keep the value of our house up as high as possible.
About three years ago during the rainy season, we noticed water beading up on the ceiling in our dining room. We called some roofers the next day. After three estimates and lots of advice, we decided to replace the failed flashing that caused the leak, and to completely replace the now 20-year-old roof. We hoped the leak problem was solved for good. After three years and numerous spells of rain, we never noticed another leak.
Now we have our house up for sale. The stain on the ceiling from the leak long ago still shines through the mutable coats of paint we used to try to cover it up.
My reply:
As I always say, if you have major work done that comes with a warranty, make sure that you can transfer it to another owner. A three-year-old roof is a good selling point, especially in your part of the country.
As for your stain, this is a commonly asked question. Your local paint store can help you with the products just for this problem. These products paint on like a primer, but unlike an ordinary paint, it will kill the stain forever. After this stain-killer primer dries, you can paint over it with your ceiling paint and the stain will not come back to haunt you.
Don't let you repairs make you miserable, call your local professional handyman.
“We have tried everything and we can’t fix the problem”, “We have lived with this problem for years”. And my personal favorite “I have told Jim for years that this was a problem, but he would not get off his lazy rear-end to fix it, now we have a bigger problem!-HELP!”
Here is another example of questions I have received:
Client:
We have lived in our present house since it was built and have always taken good care of it. If there was ever a problem, we took care of it right away. We wanted to keep up the regular maintenance, so we can keep the value of our house up as high as possible.
About three years ago during the rainy season, we noticed water beading up on the ceiling in our dining room. We called some roofers the next day. After three estimates and lots of advice, we decided to replace the failed flashing that caused the leak, and to completely replace the now 20-year-old roof. We hoped the leak problem was solved for good. After three years and numerous spells of rain, we never noticed another leak.
Now we have our house up for sale. The stain on the ceiling from the leak long ago still shines through the mutable coats of paint we used to try to cover it up.
My reply:
As I always say, if you have major work done that comes with a warranty, make sure that you can transfer it to another owner. A three-year-old roof is a good selling point, especially in your part of the country.
As for your stain, this is a commonly asked question. Your local paint store can help you with the products just for this problem. These products paint on like a primer, but unlike an ordinary paint, it will kill the stain forever. After this stain-killer primer dries, you can paint over it with your ceiling paint and the stain will not come back to haunt you.
Don't let you repairs make you miserable, call your local professional handyman.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Call Your Handyman
As a handyman I receive a lot of questions from homeowners about how to do small repairs on their home. In most cases after I am done answering the question, I am asked how much it would cost to have a handyman do the job. Here is such a case;
We bought a 50-year old house; it had an old wood-fired heater in it with a round flue to a chimney. This flue went through the cinder block wall. Also the house had a furnace with a large pipe going through the cinderblock. We got the old heater out and replaced the furnace with a heat pump. Now we want to turn this room into a nice laundry room. My question is how do I plug up these holes in the cinder block so we can start with the project? Both of the flue holes are about 8" in diameter.
The cinder block has two faces that are two inches thick. The best way to repair the holes is to cut out the two-inch face. Cut the whole face out around each of these holes. Once you get the face cut out, you should have a hole sixteen inches long and eight inches high. Make sure that you have cut this out at least two inches deep.
You now need to buy two “patio block” (1-½X 7-½x 15 ½) and a small bag of mortar mix.
Use two wood wedges to center the patio block in each of the holes. Try to get the patio block not only centered but flush with the face of the wall. Mix some of the mortar mix with water, but not too much water. The mix should be thick, not runny. Take the mix and pack it in the space around the patio block. Give it about an hour to set, than remove the wedges (slowly). Now pack some mortar in the holes left by the wedges. For a finished look, strike the joint with a half inch piece of copper pipe.
Remember if you have a professional handyman take care of those jobs around the house, it will give you more time for fishing.
We bought a 50-year old house; it had an old wood-fired heater in it with a round flue to a chimney. This flue went through the cinder block wall. Also the house had a furnace with a large pipe going through the cinderblock. We got the old heater out and replaced the furnace with a heat pump. Now we want to turn this room into a nice laundry room. My question is how do I plug up these holes in the cinder block so we can start with the project? Both of the flue holes are about 8" in diameter.
The cinder block has two faces that are two inches thick. The best way to repair the holes is to cut out the two-inch face. Cut the whole face out around each of these holes. Once you get the face cut out, you should have a hole sixteen inches long and eight inches high. Make sure that you have cut this out at least two inches deep.
You now need to buy two “patio block” (1-½X 7-½x 15 ½) and a small bag of mortar mix.
Use two wood wedges to center the patio block in each of the holes. Try to get the patio block not only centered but flush with the face of the wall. Mix some of the mortar mix with water, but not too much water. The mix should be thick, not runny. Take the mix and pack it in the space around the patio block. Give it about an hour to set, than remove the wedges (slowly). Now pack some mortar in the holes left by the wedges. For a finished look, strike the joint with a half inch piece of copper pipe.
Remember if you have a professional handyman take care of those jobs around the house, it will give you more time for fishing.
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